I’m not quiet sure how I would go about testing like that. And I never heard of working on a hot circuit.
I understand I could time the dishwasher and use that to help find what cycle it stops at.
Comment on Help Fixing my Dishwasher - Part 2
AbidingOhmsLaw@lemmy.ml 1 day ago
984 Ohms seem way high for a solenoid, 8 to 20 ohms would seem more resonable. In the first picture there is a rolled up paper tucked under the inlet, carefully take that out and unroll it. That will be the schematic and field tech notes, it might have the solenoid nominal resistance values and probably has a trouble shooting prkcedure.
I’m not quiet sure how I would go about testing like that. And I never heard of working on a hot circuit.
I understand I could time the dishwasher and use that to help find what cycle it stops at.
AFAIK you would need a VFD or a custom built driver circuit to generate the frequency you need to operate it at which is the hard part.
Honestly though if it’s an permanent magnet synchronous AC motor (highly likely) you should be able to test it provided you had a Variac to lower mains voltage (or transformer with taps works too) although you would need to bring the input voltage waaay down.
Permanent magnet synchronous motors have a ratio of V/Hz you need to maintain, in this case we have 0.256 V/Hz.
To test at 60Hz the max I would start at would be 15.34V AC at 60Hz. Otherwise you draw too much current and risk cooking it.
So thoses are “S” not 5 as in step 1, step 2, step 3, etc if you hook it back up and start the “Customer Service Cycle” perf thee instructions at the top of the page the display will read out the step its on, it will do that step for the time indicated in thee 2nd column and it will be doing the action indicated in the last column, then it will move on to the next step. This allowes you to watch and listen to each step to make sure its doing what it should. Find one that is not and you probably IDed the issue.
To steps it says to use special function menu mentions button I do not have.
I tried asking AI, and it mentioned holding left arrow plus right arrow, then turning to changing on, and clean should flash multiple LEDs.
Delicate wash flashes and express wash stays lit when doing this. Then pressing start lights both those LEDs. Then press start again, I can hear something clicking twice, then the active and clean LEDs flash including delicate and express wash.
The buttons aren’t labeled on the front of your machine as A B or C. But A is the button furthest to the left, B is the middle button, and C is the button on the right. Post a pic of the front of the machine with the controls or post the make and model.
dudesss@piefed.ca 1 day ago
Water inlet valve here shows 990-995 Ohms
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AbidingOhmsLaw@lemmy.ml 1 day ago
As I suspected this has your resistance measurements for each of the motors, so measure where indicated and you can see if the windings in the motor is faulty. Your selonoid value looks good.
dudesss@piefed.ca 18 hours ago
So you’re saying this part could be broken? Is this the drain pump? Image
Could it helps this part instead? What is this part called? Also a drain pump?Image
AbidingOhmsLaw@lemmy.ml 17 hours ago
The top picture is the drain pump motor that would be the part that might need replacing if you are having a drain pump error coide. Before replacing it though I would check the windings (coils) to see it they are shorted ( 0 ohms) or burned (very high or infanate ohms). If it within range it might just be that it was not seated properly in the sump housing. The sump housing I’d the gray thing in the 2nd picture.