Comment on It fits!
IMALlama@lemmy.world 7 months agoI appreciate the reply. You described my usual process, but the dimensions on this thing are very not-round.
So are you saying you traced a photo, then printed multiple parts to get a trial-and-error fit? And you’re trying to fit the blue part around the black part?
Yup!
That seems extremely time consuming and wasteful. 3d printing lets you work this way but you’ll get better results by planning out the part more carefully from the start.
For simpler shapes, I agree with you. That’s exactly what I do usually and I’m pretty good at getting things on the first shot with a pair of calipers and a radius gauge. I do not have convex radius gauges, but I guess I could have printed some. This thing has… very arbitrary dimensions (it’s 23.22mm tall on a pair of mitutoyo calipers - I doubt I’m off by the 0.03 to make it a nice round 23.25). Even if it really does have 0.25mm dimensions, that would make me want to avoid guessing radii. I also wasn’t sure how to guess at locating the bump out for the screw holes accurately. In either case, I would be iterating a few times to get a snug fit.
they look like they could be the same as the screw tab radius.
They’re not :(
An important piece of info here is that those compound curves are usually just simple circular radii
They are!
People working in CAD software very rarely go to finer adjustments than that for superficial details like this, so it’s usually easy to find the numbers they used.
Normally I agree with this, but the dimensions on this part are super goofy. I’ve seen this on a few other random China parts, but it is pretty uncommon.
That seems extremely time consuming and wasteful. 3d printing lets you work this way but you’ll get better results by planning out the part more carefully from the start.
I figured I would have to iterate either way and suspect I did less iterating this way than trying to guess radii. The time commitment wasn’t that large, and would have been similar in either case. As for plastic, each test piece weighs 10 grams and I went through four total, including this one. Nearly all my prints are functional, or they’re fixing broken kid toys (I guess this is functional too), so I’m not too worried about the small amount of waste.
Excrubulent@slrpnk.net 7 months ago
Oh wow, that is very strange. I checked if 23.22mm was anything in inches, and it’s 0.914 and change, so it’s not an imperial thing. I wonder if it just comes from people eyeballing it with no real dimensions or something?
Well, as you were I guess. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
remotelove@lemmy.ca 7 months ago
The mold was likely 24mm. There could be some shrinkage or a the shot of plastic was a bit light for that set.
Or, it was actually 23.22mm and the dimensions were calculated from another reference point, like PCB or LCD size. If anything, .22mm was supposed to be .25mm tolerance.
Translating CAD into plastic can be a very strange thing sometimes.
IMALlama@lemmy.world 7 months ago
I appreciate the detailed reply! If anything, someone reading it will learn something. It’s always amusing trying to make nice fitting sockets for random electrical parts. Sometimes the dimensions make a lot of sense. Other times they feel very random, which is surprising given that basically all these parts are probably modeled in CAD.
Excrubulent@slrpnk.net 7 months ago
I appreciate you not being defensive and just explaining your process in so much detail. I learned something about how finnicky some of these parts can be. I wonder if another strategy would be to trace the part onto paper and scan it, to get an undistorted shape?
And I don’t mind explaining things, it’s someting I sort of can’t help to be honest. I hope it’s useful to someone.
IMALlama@lemmy.world 7 months ago
Tracing can work, but it’s a little fickle too. In this case the part had a small radius on its face. There’s also the whole pencil lead has width thing, but it can work OK if you’re very intentional at keeping the pencil tip pointing at the part in question.
Flatbed scanners also work fairly well, but they’re focused at the glass height and you quickly lose detail if the parts have a radius on them.