Comment on How?

• FuglyDuck@lemmy.world ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

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  Okay, using a microswiss hot end for an example, and that’s a clean photo. They’re all usually about the same anyhow. What’s going on here is a very common mistake to make. the immediate cause is that the heat break (red arrow in the picture) is not screwed on to the heater block tightly enough, and some filament is oozing out the top rather than getting forced out the nozzle.

  The solution is to heat it up, clean everything up with a brass brush or something similar. Then remove the nozzle and run filament through while it’s hot, clearing out any gunk that’s built up.

  Now, to get it on there tight enough, what you need to do is heat up the nozzle to higher than you normally print at, then tighten it down as tight as it can go while trying very hard to not burn yourself.

  You can get the same problem with the nozzle oozing, out (blue arrow) as well, so while you’re running hot, go ahead and put the nozzle back in and get it as tight as you can, too. once it’s done, you can loosen the set screw above the heat break (on the heat sink. the set screw holds the heat break in place.) and turn the block so it’s more or less aligned with the printer. Let it cool back down and bring it up to temperature and check for leaks again.

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  • Koopa_Khan@lemmy.world ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

    Thank you for your advice and encouragement! Its comforting to know that its happened to everyone and its a common error.

    After everything is cleaned up should i reseat the heat block before i remove the nozzle to clear the gunk or after?

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    • FuglyDuck@lemmy.world ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

      I would suggest removing the nozzle, and clearing it if there’s a jam first, then seating the heat block to the break. Then the nozzle. Both the best break and the nozzle need to be hot as you’re doing the final tightening. I don’t know that the order really matters … it’s just how i do it. I do recommend being systematic about how you go through things. It’s helpful to have a process.

      Systematic processes help you to not forget things, like forgetting to reconnect the BLtouch cable when doing stuff with the hot end. (Ooops.)

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      • Koopa_Khan@lemmy.world ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

        Thank you! Unfortunately i didnt get a cool spaghetti monster this time, but I like the idea of keeping them to see how far youve come

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  • dual_sport_dork@lemmy.world ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

    while trying very hard to not burn yourself.

    Those otherwise stupid silicone oven gloves are just about perfect for this task, at least on your non-wrench holding hand.

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    • FuglyDuck@lemmy.world ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

      I always laugh at those stickers on the hotend cowlings “Caution Hot.” On one hand… thank you captain OBVIOUS… on the other hand… eh… hehe.

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• PlasticExistence@lemmy.world ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

  Hey I’ve been there. Take it apart carefully and inspect it as you go. Do lots of reading, clean it up, put it back together and hopefully it won’t happen again - but know that it might if you don’t find a cause. Sometimes things have to get worse before a cause becomes obvious.

  I’ve got a Prusa, but I’ve had to replace many different parts on it, sometimes multiple times. Some of that was factory issues. Some of that was my fault. Some of it was just bad luck.

  I still love the hobby, but it sure as Hell isn’t trouble free.

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• marcos@lemmy.world ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

  The problem is I don’t even know what happened or how the pla got around that silicon sleeve.

  It’s kinda normal. If the hotend clogs there’s only two places for the plastic to go (or it can stop going into the hotend), the other one is up. And this is both more common and way better than up.

  It doesn’t look like it, but the printer pushes the filament with a lot of force. It’s normal for it to just go into some completely unexpected direction that you can’t replicate by hand.

  Anyway, if it’s working correctly and what bothers you is the extra plastic, just heat the printer until some 160 °C and pull it away.

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  • Koopa_Khan@lemmy.world ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

    Thank you, that did the trick to remove it!

    If i were to leave something like that, is there a risk of a fire starting?

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    • marcos@lemmy.world ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

      Not really. Nothing on the printer get hot enough for that.

      But there is a large risk of the extruded plastic adhering to it and of it contaminating your print.

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      • Koopa_Khan@lemmy.world ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

        Thank you! I’d rather deal with a contaminated print than a fire

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    • nilloc@discuss.tchncs.de ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

      I’m not going to say no, however my nozzle has been pretty gross for a long time between cleanings and never been an issue.

      The bigger danger is that the thermocouple could fail and allow runaway heating (beyond 300c). But most good print firmware is supposed to prevent that.

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      • Koopa_Khan@lemmy.world ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

        Thank you! I that makes me feel better about leaving it print while I’m at work

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• rambos@lemm.ee ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

  Maybe its best to put it away for some time and then come back to it when you feel its time. I mean, its a hoby and it can be frustrating, but its worth IMO. Dont forget its a machine and not a plug-and-play device.

  Im in this hoby for 10ish years and I never had a leak. Probbly because I was reading about that even before I got my first printer. I did have many other issues and failures, but they almost never happen anymore. Most of the crap stopped after I got Ultimaker 2, but I believe experience is the main reason.

  Like others said, your nozzle wasnt sealed (tightened) against the heat brake properly. You have to heat up your hotend before tightening, but dont use full strength or you might break your nozzle.

  Now you can clean it up or just replace heatbrake and nozzle, at least parts are available everywhere

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  • Koopa_Khan@lemmy.world ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

    Thank you! I gave it a clean and fingers crossed it works put tomorrow when I’ve got some more time to mess with a test print

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