Comment on Why prime tower instead of poop?
papalonian@lemmy.world 2 weeks agoIf you have a printer that has these features, try it out and see the differences for yourself. There’s probably a reason why it’s set up the way it is, but sometimes the differences are so minute that you don’t notice or care. If you run a few prints and the color swaps look like garbage, you’ll have a better understanding of why the printer and firmware are set up that way. If it turns out fine, congratulations, you’ve made a personal improvement to your machine!
Blue_Morpho@lemmy.world 2 weeks ago
I’d rather understand why than have a print randomly fail in the future. That is just because one model can print without a prime tower doesn’t mean all will work under all conditions.
I’d love to get a real answer.
papalonian@lemmy.world 2 weeks ago
That’s why I suggested testing it and seeing the results for yourself, not necessarily “turn it off and yolo”.
If you know firsthand what the outcome of changing the settings is, you can make a decision on your own based on your own experience when to use what settings.
Blue_Morpho@lemmy.world 2 weeks ago
Testing on a print means nothing. Just because one print works doesn’t mean it will work on every print. If I understood exactly why there is a prime tower instead of purging for prime I’d know under what conditions it could be disabled.
Maybe it’s a historical artifact from printers from 10 years ago. Maybe “build nozzle pressure” doesn’t work as well if you aren’t priming onto a surface that would create back pressure.
papalonian@lemmy.world 2 weeks ago
I’m sorry, maybe I’m not phrasing this correctly…
I never said, “test on one print”. I said to test it. Test it on an object with many color changes, test it on a model with a ton of one color and only a small amount of another, test it with different infill percentages, test it on a prototype of something that’s going to be really important so you know how it will work in the end.
Everybody is going to have their own specific answer as to what works well and what is and isn’t necessary, the only way to find the right answer for you is to test things and figure it out yourself. The only way to get things 100% right 100% of the time is leave it how it is now and stop messing with it. Anything beyond that is going to vary on a case by case basis, and you’ll only understand what settings to change when, if you toy around with test prints.
I have been printing for many years. I understand that, “what works on one won’t always work on another”. Which is why I find it odd that you seem to be looking for an answer that works for one person, and therefore must work for every person, for every print. The only one-size-fits-all is going to be the most wasteful in material and time (purge tower and purging filament). If you want to cut back on what the manufacturer/ slicer devs are saying “this will most likely work”, you’re going to have to do some experimenting yourself.