I see. I probably should have been more specific, sorry. If you do try torching the parts, be very careful with the heater block. They are usually aluminum, and can melt much more easily than the steel and brass parts.
Comment on Help please: heating block gooed up with PLA
Prunebutt@slrpnk.net 1 day agoSorry, not an english native speaker, so I didn’t know what a tap was. Good thing that context made me not google myself to death with that non-SEO friendly term (it’s the drill thing that cuts threads inno holes).
A new heating block is a bit cheaper and I got no use for a tap, so I just ordered a new one. Maybe I give the torching method a try, too before it arrives.
Anywho: I understand the hotend way better now. I guess that’s worth the 4,50 in a new heating block. (:
Fenderfreek@lemmy.world 1 day ago
Prunebutt@slrpnk.net 1 day ago
Nah, don’t worry about it. You used the correct term, which happens to have an amiguous name (you’d translate the German term to “thread-cutting drill”).
Thanks for the heads up. Is it very unadvisable to leave the PLA in the threading if nozzle and heatbreak have proper contact?
Fenderfreek@lemmy.world 1 day ago
I think if you can ensure they all thread together without a problem, it doesn’t need to be perfectly clean, but I suspect that will be difficult if there is melted filament in the threads at all
Prunebutt@slrpnk.net 1 day ago
The new heating block is in transit. I’ll do some checks.
morbidcactus@lemmy.ca 19 hours ago
It’s a right of passage, I switched all my hotends to fixed blocks, accidentally loosened the block once on the older style hotend after torquing correctly and enveloped the thing in petg, it kinda vitrified too or something in the heat, was like glass so no getting that off.
Generally, blobs off of your hotend, estop it and take a look, that’s a huge tell for a leak.
Worth keeping a few spares around, at least for stuff like nozzles, blocks, heaters and probes.