Comment on Help please: heating block gooed up with PLA
Fenderfreek@lemmy.world 1 day agoMost nozzles and heat breaks have M6x1mm threads, so they’re pretty standard (double check yours specifically). Lightly chasing the heat break threads with a tap should clean out any gunk and ensure that your heatbreak and nozzle threads engage properly when you reassemble everything again, and that things get torqued together correctly.
Prunebutt@slrpnk.net 10 hours ago
Sorry, not an english native speaker, so I didn’t know what a tap was. Good thing that context made me not google myself to death with that non-SEO friendly term (it’s the drill thing that cuts threads inno holes).
A new heating block is a bit cheaper and I got no use for a tap, so I just ordered a new one. Maybe I give the torching method a try, too before it arrives.
Anywho: I understand the hotend way better now. I guess that’s worth the 4,50 in a new heating block. (:
Fenderfreek@lemmy.world 10 hours ago
I see. I probably should have been more specific, sorry. If you do try torching the parts, be very careful with the heater block. They are usually aluminum, and can melt much more easily than the steel and brass parts.
Prunebutt@slrpnk.net 10 hours ago
Nah, don’t worry about it. You used the correct term, which happens to have an amiguous name (you’d translate the German term to “thread-cutting drill”).
Thanks for the heads up. Is it very unadvisable to leave the PLA in the threading if nozzle and heatbreak have proper contact?
Fenderfreek@lemmy.world 10 hours ago
I think if you can ensure they all thread together without a problem, it doesn’t need to be perfectly clean, but I suspect that will be difficult if there is melted filament in the threads at all