kek_w_lol
@kek_w_lol@lemmy.one
- Comment on Designed this coaster, because I wanted something tidy looking and dual color, without filament changes 4 days ago:
If your printer is tuned well and is direct drive, there should be absolutely nothing in your way. Just print the parts separately and, if you want, in different colors. Happy printing!
- Comment on Designed this simple and easy to print cable holder 4 weeks ago:
Happy printing!
- Comment on Designed this simple and easy to print cable holder 4 weeks ago:
But what if I need only one and I need it today?
- Comment on Designed this simple and easy to print cable holder 4 weeks ago:
Never saw it before, does look similar though. But I guess there are only so many ways of making a thing fit inside another thing through a cutout.
- Comment on Designed this simple and easy to print cable holder 4 weeks ago:
I am more of a double sided tape guy, but you are very welcome to remix the model.
- Submitted 4 weeks ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 19 comments
- Comment on Designed this coaster, because I wanted something tidy looking and dual color, without filament changes 4 weeks ago:
It has a 60°C short program. Fiberlogy PETG doesn’t warp at those temps.
- Comment on Designed this coaster, because I wanted something tidy looking and dual color, without filament changes 4 weeks ago:
That is why I regularly disassemble mine and toss them in the dishwasher to prevent mold and to clean them from dust and drinks.
- Designed this coaster, because I wanted something tidy looking and dual color, without filament changesmedia.printables.com ↗Submitted 4 weeks ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 11 comments
- Comment on Anyone who's used the Anycubic Kobra Pro, what is your experience? 1 year ago:
Just in case, check the PSU Voltage. Check the plugs on the Y axis motor. Worst case, you might need to redownload the CFG file for your printer. Try that. Write again if none of that works.
- Comment on Anyone who's used the Anycubic Kobra Pro, what is your experience? 1 year ago:
What country are you located in?
- Comment on Anyone who's used the Anycubic Kobra Pro, what is your experience? 1 year ago:
So I have used the sv06 and had a bit of a run in with the sv07. Both are decent machines with their own quirks. The sv06 needs bearings replaced after 3 months of use at the latest, after that runs perfectly. The sv07 uses v-wheels, and is therefore lower maintenance. They both use the same toolhead design and both print well enough. sv07 is a bit more finnicky with cooling (special klipper command for the big fan) but they are both decent machines. I personally run a heavily modified Ender 3 v2, but currently, the Sovols are some of the best bang for the buck. Right now, I would buy the sv06, change the bearings from day one and that’s it. It is basically a 1:1 copy of a Prusa, and printing replacement parts for it is extremely easy, if anything ever breaks. The only thing it “lacks” is a filament sensor (haven’t had the need for one in the time I have been printing), but that is easily added. Do your own research though. Lost in Tech has some great reviews on both machines.
- Comment on Anyone who's used the Anycubic Kobra Pro, what is your experience? 1 year ago:
All printers use the same components. Same motors, leadscrews and belts. If the printer is built well, the precision will be the same. You obviously have play in some machines, but due to the variance in filament it can vary from negligible to basically nonexistent. It’s not the machines fault most of the time. Polymers have variance and sometimes unpredictable behaviour. Just part of the game.
- Comment on Anyone who's used the Anycubic Kobra Pro, what is your experience? 1 year ago:
So lets start from the top:
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All printers have the same precision.
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I guess you’re talking about input shaping, which reduces artifacts and shaking of the printer (a little)
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Most budget printers right now have lots of the same creature comforts that this printer has.
Right now the biggest things are community/aftermarket support (moddability), price and firmware. You should get Klipper to get input shaping, so that narrows it down. Look for some klipper printers (e.g. Sovol sv07) and decide which one you like best. They are almost all the same, save for qc and qa issues by some companies and sometimes lackluster support. Any printer can produce awesome prints. It’s only a question of how much time you have to fiddle with the settings. Cheers!
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- Comment on It was not a loose thermistor after all, thank you for your help! 1 year ago:
Glass bead thermistors have very fragile wires and sometimes you can’t see a break that has occured. I replaced mine with a cartridge as fast as possible, but good on you for finding and solving the problem.
- Comment on I somehow got addicted to making phone cases for friends and family since I successfully printed TPU the first time. 1 year ago:
It depends how thick and soft the tpu is. If you have a thick enough and soft enough case, it will absorb an impact. Just like silicone cases do. And they are also solid.
- Comment on Neptune 4 Yea/Nea? 1 year ago:
Technically, you’re supposed to pack bearings with grease before installation (put grease inside bearing, plug opposite end with thumb and shove steel rod into the open side), but cheap printer manufacturers rarely do it, so that would be the first thing to do after you get the sv06. After that, your lunrication method is sufficient. But it is still better to repack bearings after a while and clean the rods.
- Comment on Neptune 4 Yea/Nea? 1 year ago:
One of the best first printers right now is sovol sv06. It is basically a prusa mk3s but without the customer support and filament sensor. If you want a printer with lots of possible community mods, get yourself an ender 3(/pro/v2/s1/neo whatever) and mod away.
- Comment on Ender of worlds 1 year ago:
Wow! Have you ever thought about converting it to direct drive?
- Comment on Ender of worlds 1 year ago:
I like it. Now list ALL the mods! :)
