Wfh

@Wfh@lemmy.zip

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨New Community: Made in Europe: A community dedicated to exchanging about consumer products made in Europe⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago⁩:

  It does!

• New Community: Made in Europe: A community dedicated to exchanging about consumer products made in Europe
  Submitted ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago⁩ to ⁨newcommunities@lemmy.world⁩ | ⁨5⁩ ⁨comments⁩
• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Where do you guys buy your 3D print and such at?⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago⁩:

  TinkerCAD is ok for simple shapes and basic functional parts. It works by adding or subtracting simple shapes together (cubes, cylinders etc) to make more complex shapes. It’s quick, easy and instinctive but anything slightly more complex than a dozen shapes grouped together and/or iterative designs quickly become a time consuming nightmare. It’s like trying to format a magazine in Word.

  FreeCAD (or Fusion, OnShape, SolidWorks or any “serious” CAD software) use a parametric workflow. You start with a technical drawing by setting shapes, dimensions, angles and relationships (“constraints”), extrude or revolve this shape to create a solid, then continue by drawing another sketch on a face and by adding more constraints. It has a much steeper learning curve, but once understood it’s much quicker and easier to build very complex shapes. Plus iterative designs are usually a breeze since everything is constrained together, so changing any dimension or angle in any sketch means the whole design will follow. It’s also trivial to add chamfers, filets, working with mirror and central symmetry etc. When designing functional parts, parametric design is the proper tool for the job.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Insane: Microsoft's latest ad proves how useless Copilot on Windows 11 actually is⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨month⁩ ago⁩:

  You should pay with ai generated $19 bills.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨I made a F1-style steering wheel for VR sim-racing from scratch⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Fuck fascist governments.

  Seriously tho if you know a free image hosting site that doesn’t geo block (most of them seem to do because of fucking morons passing idiotic laws), I’m all ears

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨I made a F1-style steering wheel for VR sim-racing from scratch⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Yeah by far, although I don’t consider it part of the build.

  I actually started this build with a Thrustmaster T300RS in mind, but it took so long I upgraded to a Moza R9 partway 😅

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨I made a F1-style steering wheel for VR sim-racing from scratch⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Thanks!

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨I made a F1-style steering wheel for VR sim-racing from scratch⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Honestly, don’t 😅

  I will try and write something down the line!

• I made a F1-style steering wheel for VR sim-racing from scratchlemmy.zip ↗
  Submitted ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩ to ⁨3dprinting@lemmy.world⁩ | ⁨13⁩ ⁨comments⁩
• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨What are the most useful things you've printed?⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  I have literally printed hundreds of parts, most of them custom made.

  From the top of my head:

  • a box to transport extra Framework expansion cards
  • custom hooks to attach luminous garlands to a tiled ceiling for my wedding
  • custom attachments for various devices and tools
  • kitchen and bathroom quality of life improvements
  • a structure for my Volca mini-synths
  • an ergo mech keyboard
  • a 100% self designed F1-inspired sim racing wheel (WIP)
  • etc.
• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Sovol SV08 or Prusa MK4S⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  The SV08 is a decent printer if you’re willing to tinker and regularly recalibrate the shit out of it. Sometimes it’s absolutely perfect after THE right calibration move. Sometimes it’s absolute shit and nothing prints properly and/or sticks to the bed and you need to recalibrate it. I’ve found that heat soaking it for at least 1/2h before each print and recalibrating the probe as soon as printing is slightly less than perfect helps a lot.

  My takeways:

  • Taco bed is a minor issue if you can properly probe.
  • It’s FAST and the print volume is excellent
  • Everything is automated and/or software controlled so fixing issues can be quite a nightmare if you’re used to all-manual troubleshooting (I come from an Ender3)
  • Build quality is OK. It probably needs some costly upgrades to get to Voron-level (Stealthburner hotend, thick aluminium plate, enclosure etc.)
  • The DIY upgrades ecosystem seems very active.
  • Klipper+Mainsail are amazing

  Get a Sovol if you’re a tinkerer and you want to maximize speed and build volume per currency unit.

  Get a Prusa if you want a high quality printer out of the box.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Welcome to Lemmy.zip⁩ ⁨⁨6⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Hey! Another .ee refugee here! Thank you all for keeping us alive in these trying times.

  I really wish for here to be my long term home. If there is anything we can do to help on top of donations, I would be happy to participate :)