Guenther_Amanita
@Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net
- Comment on What are your go-to sites to find free 3D files to print? 1 week ago:
Thangs
- Comment on Here's the promised video of my Nepenthes snacking 2 weeks ago:
Maybe they can help you on your balcony!
I don’t think so, because there are so many that are attracted by other things, such as honeydew.
But I have a Sarracenia out there!
It wasn’t really happy until now, but once it acclimatises, it might catch a few ants and maybe wasps?
My nepenthes is indoor only, because I’m afraid I might introduce pests to my other houseplants when I have to bring it indoors over winter.
That’s amazing. Did the buggy get there on its own or did you help?
I had to help a bit 🙃
I put the bug onto the plant itself, but it crawled in there on its own.My neps are still learning to walk. They’ve been fed synthetic fertiliser up until now, and they yet have to develop their hunting instincts :D
- Comment on How to treat mealy bugs on pings? 2 weeks ago:
Definitely take some leaf pullings before! Just in case, if the soap kills the plants, you have a backup and can start growing them again.
I’m in a similar position with my Drosera right now.
What substrate do you use for your pings? If you use peat or other organic media, I think they won’t be super happy. They arent bog plants and don’t like to be having wet feet constantly afaik
- Submitted 2 weeks ago to houseplants@mander.xyz | 7 comments
- Submitted 2 weeks ago to houseplants@mander.xyz | 2 comments
- Comment on The beginning of my Pinguicula on mosses project 3 weeks ago:
I think the brand doesn’t matter much. They all work fine.
I will make a post about it, so it is easier accessible for others too.
TL;DR what I’ll say:
- Expensive isn’t much better
- There’s “red” LECA (smoother surface, but more compact) and “grey” LECA (very lightweight, porous and floats). Both have their own (small) pros and cons, but still similar. I just mixed them by now for aesthetic purposes lol
- The size variation matters a lot. Bigger, rounder balls = more air gaps.
- You have to soak it first in pure water when dry. If you use tap water instead, it will leach over the next weeks and alter the water chemistry, including pH.
You can reverse this by cooking pretty fast tho
- Submitted 3 weeks ago to houseplants@mander.xyz | 0 comments
- Comment on The beginning of my Pinguicula on mosses project 3 weeks ago:
I made a guide a few weeks ago, here it is
LECA is expanded clay balls. Similar to pumice for example, it has a lot of pores, which draw up water by capillary action. It is constantly moist, but also highly aerated and my hydroponic medium of choice.
I also made a few posts about it, including microscope pictures and explaining the concept of semi-hydro :)
- Submitted 3 weeks ago to houseplants@mander.xyz | 9 comments
- Comment on Laboratory note book for my new research group 3 weeks ago:
Obsidian or Logseq.
I’ve used Logseq for my lab journal, thoughts, and whatsoever, and it works excellent for that.
- You can link different things/ dates with each entry
- Markdown
- Functions and querys
- Local
It can be tricky tho if you want to collaborate, because the sync isn’t perfect yet, but the devs are working really hard on it
- Comment on Hydroponic carnivorous plants - Another update 1 month ago:
They’re growing in a soil-less media and receive hydroponic fertilizer. The technique is called “semi-hydro”, which is a passive way of growing plants.
- Submitted 1 month ago to houseplants@mander.xyz | 4 comments
- Comment on Look, I just really don't like working with soil in my apartment [DWC with Caladium, Tradescantia, Hawaiian "Ti"] 1 month ago:
increasing the nutrient concentration
Be careful. A nutrient burn is way more harmful than a deficiency.
It’s one of many plants that people say “do not like wet soil,”
Water isn’t the problem, it’s the anaerobic conditions that lead to root rot
Are all of those pictures of your plants really all hydro?
Yeah, the only exception is my one Drosera, which lives in the peat mix I bought it in (can’t survive in most other media) and a few of my balcony plants, mainly my blackberry (annual) and some pollinator flower mixes that live as weeds.
All other ones, houseplants (including calatheas and some carnivorous plants!) and balcony crops (cannabis, melons, chilli, etc.) are in hydro.
Here, for example, my Tradescantia (because it was a main subject of your post) and Nepenthes
- Comment on Look, I just really don't like working with soil in my apartment [DWC with Caladium, Tradescantia, Hawaiian "Ti"] 1 month ago:
The high growth isn’t particularly a pro of DWC - it’s one of hydro in general.
Yeah, I believe my plants (both houseplants and balcony crops) are growing crazy fast, but I don’t know if it’s due to hydro, or just the all in all great conditions in general, like lots of light.
I “sadly” don’t have any plants in soil anymore, so I can’t compare it. But science confirms it too 👍
- Comment on Look, I just really don't like working with soil in my apartment [DWC with Caladium, Tradescantia, Hawaiian "Ti"] 1 month ago:
You don’t need to replace the nutrient solution that regularly. Low maintenance is one of the main upsides of hydro.
I flush my pots once a month, sometimes even less often. For that, I just “swoosh” the pot around in a circular motion, and then discard the liquid.
You do this to “reset” the chemical makeup, so you don’t get nutrient lockout from an overabundance of one or the other salts or risk over- or underfertilizing.All the oxygen is supplied through the very big surface and air flow between the LECA balls, because you never fill the pot to more than 1/3 with nutrient solution.
If you wanna know more, just ask, I have over 100 houseplants in hydro and my balcony too :)
- Submitted 1 month ago to houseplants@mander.xyz | 3 comments
- Comment on Filling Nepenthes pitchers? 1 month ago:
Do you know how the mechanism works?
Does it work in reverse too? If I fill them with nutrient solution, will they drink it up too?
Is my humidity too low, so the liquid they produce themselfes evaporates?
How high should the level be?
And is the filling process triggered by something?
- Submitted 1 month ago to houseplants@mander.xyz | 4 comments
- Submitted 1 month ago to houseplants@mander.xyz | 1 comment
- Comment on Pest control 2 months ago:
Yeah, definitely scale bugs. You can get rid of them using insecticides.
I can recommend you “Spruzid” made by Neudorff. You can find it pretty much everywhere in local garden or hardware stores, like Dehner, Obi, etc.
I like it because it’s by far not as harmful as other (synthetic) pesticides, especially for pets. It’s even fine to use it on veggies.You can speay your phalaenopsis in it until it’s completely soaked. Repeat that after a few weeks.
Often, pests are just a symptom of an unhealthy plant, so maybe fix the underlying issue first, like nutritional deficiencies or insufficient light.
I pretty much never have to fight pests with my houseplants, and even if I get a contaminated one, they somehow don’t spread and just disappear.
- Comment on Money tree pruning 2 months ago:
I use Sansi grow lights. They fit into standard E27 bulbs, are very efficient and have a bright natural light.
Be aware, they can be really strong! Some houseplants don’t tolerate much light and can even bleach out if too close to the bulb
- Comment on Pest control 2 months ago:
Can you share a picture with higher resolution?
Are they located in the substrate too? Because those could also be springtails, which are harmless, but I can’t see it from the one picture alone.
- Comment on Money tree pruning 2 months ago:
It definitely needs more light. Those blurple lights are more gimmicky than useful. You can see that by the internodial elongation.
Then, cut the longest stem to the height of the other ones, which is about the level of the white ball thing. Again, more light, or they will seek out more by themselves and grow very weak and thin.
Optionally, you can now bend the other ones down temporarily with a wire, called Low-Stress-Training, which will send out more side branches.
Remove the very lowest ones, so it looks more like a “tree”.
- Comment on [deleted] 2 months ago:
Does this count too?
I already posted this on !balconygardening@slrpnk.net. .
I’m purposefully growing duckweed on my balcony.
I’m doing !hydroponics@slrpnk.net, and by doing that, I have lots of waste water with still good fertilizer in it.Duckweed is one of the fastest growing, nutrient densest and least demanding plant out there, and you can just scoop it out with a strainer.
It’s exponentially growing and if you don’t wanna eat it, it makes great organic fertiliser or animal feed with lots of protein and micronutients!
- Comment on What OS should I use for self-hosting that doesn't require extensive terminal knowledge? 3 months ago:
CasaOS isn’t an OS, it’s just the web interface you install afterwards you have Debian or whatever running
- Comment on What OS should I use for self-hosting that doesn't require extensive terminal knowledge? 3 months ago:
I can recommend you Debian, since it’s the “default” for many servers and has a lot of documentation and an extremely big userbase.
For web interfaces, I can recommend you, as you already mentioned, CasaOS and Cockpit.
I used CasaOS in the beginning and liked it, but nowadays, I mostly use Cockpit, where I have the feeling that it integrates the host system more, and allows me to do most of my maintenance (updating, etc.) quite easily.
- Comment on DIY Solar Dehydrator 3 months ago:
Wouldn’t the heat and radiation destroy all flavor compounds and colour?
- Comment on Nextcloud Hub 10 – your unified, modular digital workspace - Nextcloud 5 months ago:
Thanks for the summary!
- Comment on [deleted] 5 months ago:
What’s your fertilizing and flushing routine?
It may be possible that you don’t have a “real” deficiency, but a nutrient lockout due to wrong pH or imbalance of salts.
The lower leafes are most affected, so it seems like a deficiency of mobile nutrients like nitrogen or magnesium for example. The leafes are also drooping, which might indicate an oxygen defiency (overwatering), as you already mentioned.Did you measure the EC or pH? What did it tell?
How does you setup look like? Does the plant stand in a cache pot, or directly in the outer white one? How high is your nutrient solution level usually? Do you use a water level indicator?
And where is it located? Does it receive enough light?
Removing the rotten parts that radically was a great idea :)
- Comment on Is there something I can do about it? [Phalaenopsis orchid] 5 months ago:
Thanks!
It looks quite healthy but the transition from hydro to not-hydro (geoponics, i guess?) will trigger a lot of physiological changes and internal reshuffling of nutrients. It’s inevitable.
If you click on the post I linked, you see that the plant barely had any roots left, because they were completely mush when I bought it.
The substrate you meant is called “LECA” (expanded clay balls), which wick up the hydroponic nutrient solution. It’s just another form of passive hydroponics :)
