Guenther_Amanita
@Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net
- Comment on Nextcloud Hub 10 – your unified, modular digital workspace - Nextcloud 5 weeks ago:
Thanks for the summary!
- Comment on Thai Con struggles 1 month ago:
What’s your fertilizing and flushing routine?
It may be possible that you don’t have a “real” deficiency, but a nutrient lockout due to wrong pH or imbalance of salts.
The lower leafes are most affected, so it seems like a deficiency of mobile nutrients like nitrogen or magnesium for example. The leafes are also drooping, which might indicate an oxygen defiency (overwatering), as you already mentioned.Did you measure the EC or pH? What did it tell?
How does you setup look like? Does the plant stand in a cache pot, or directly in the outer white one? How high is your nutrient solution level usually? Do you use a water level indicator?
And where is it located? Does it receive enough light?
Removing the rotten parts that radically was a great idea :)
- Comment on Is there something I can do about it? [Phalaenopsis orchid] 1 month ago:
Thanks!
It looks quite healthy but the transition from hydro to not-hydro (geoponics, i guess?) will trigger a lot of physiological changes and internal reshuffling of nutrients. It’s inevitable.
If you click on the post I linked, you see that the plant barely had any roots left, because they were completely mush when I bought it.
The substrate you meant is called “LECA” (expanded clay balls), which wick up the hydroponic nutrient solution. It’s just another form of passive hydroponics :)
- Comment on Is there something I can do about it? [Phalaenopsis orchid] 1 month ago:
Isn’t this a sign of not enough nitrogen?
- Comment on Is there something I can do about it? [Phalaenopsis orchid] 1 month ago:
I added some additional context now :)
My problem is that the plant was pretty much dead when I got it a few months ago, and I rescued it. Still, growing completely new roots is stressful for the plant, and it redirects its resources from the leafes into the roots to get energy.
And I asked what I can do do mitigate this, so that the plant doesn’t eat itself and looses its leafes, which would suck.
- Comment on Is there something I can do about it? [Phalaenopsis orchid] 1 month ago:
Yes, the expanded clay substrate is new.
They’ve been in an organic medium (bark and coco I believe) at time of buying, but looked pretty much dead when I got them, as you can see in my previous post I linked at the beginning. Most of the roots were mush back then, but they started regrowing very healthy now.
The higher levels of fertilizer didn’t seem to be harmful as of now, since it’s still in the non-toxic zone.
My plan has been to keep it higher for now, to compensate the lack of roots, and to reduce it further more to a normal level as soon as they’ve regrown fully.So, you would say I should reduce it now to a very low level?
Is foliar feeding better? I don’t want to loose the already yellowing leaf, that would suck.
- Submitted 1 month ago to houseplants@mander.xyz | 0 comments
- Submitted 1 month ago to houseplants@mander.xyz | 11 comments
- Comment on They were just one leaf big not even half a year ago. IN WINTER [Maranta leuconora] 2 months ago:
Yeah, I messed them up… again. I have both a Ctenanthe amagris and Maranta leuconora. Thanks for letting me know!
- Submitted 2 months ago to houseplants@mander.xyz | 3 comments
- Comment on Mycelium vs. Hempcrete as insulation bricks - Advice needed 2 months ago:
Sure, mushroom spores can be unhealthy. But they’re only produced by ripe fruiting bodies, and in this case, we have mycelium, basically the “root structure”.
- Comment on Mycelium vs. Hempcrete as insulation bricks - Advice needed 2 months ago:
The cool thing about it is that you can form it to any shape you want.
For acoustic insulation, you need more than just a nice material. You need physical structures that allow the sound waves to break and dissipate. I already thought abour the puffed up concrete, but as a sheet only being a few centimetres thick, it weights too much and reflects too much noise.
Acoustic foam, you know, those with pyramids, is great, but often flammable, and, you guessed it, another source of non-recyclable plastic trash some day. I will definitely consider it, but only if I don’t find something else.
- Comment on Mycelium vs. Hempcrete as insulation bricks - Advice needed 2 months ago:
Dried mycelium is supposed to be inflammable, since it is made out of chitin, not wood. That’s why it is quite hyped as building material. Usually, with most other, you have to add flame retardants, but those chemicals can be a bit harmful.
Also, I just love mushrooms (as an organism) and think, that they can also be very useful for things other than food.
- Submitted 2 months ago to diy@slrpnk.net | 8 comments
- Comment on Looking for some (re-)use cases for older Android smartphones 2 months ago:
Hmm… Thing is, GrapheneOS is already more secure than stock Android, and the hardened memory allocator, spoofed MAC address, unprivileged Play Services, and much more as example, strongly help to reduce attack surface.
I think just going online, like connecting to my home router and doing system updates, won’t strongly compromise security.
- Submitted 2 months ago to diy@slrpnk.net | 13 comments
- Comment on My Calathea Bloomed 4 months ago:
Isn’t that a Ctentante amagris (prayer plant) instead of a Calathea?
I recommend everyone to plant that thing into LECA. Mine thrive like weeds and are blooming multiple times a year.
- Comment on Update on my plant. Unfortunately it might be sick, it has been getting worse every since I brought it home 5 months ago:
I don’t have background information, sorry.
Did you repot it before?
I think it might be one or a combination of the three:
- Not enough light: some leafes look unusually light or dark, and the whole plant is a bit droopy. Is it somewhere near enough a window? Still, not my top guess.
- Overfertilization: do you see the burnt tips, very dark-green leafes, and claw-shape? Especially the top leafes look like that.
- Oxygen deficiency (root rot): most likely. You have to act FAST now. Just not watering won’t help. If you already see signs of it, and they are strong, the roots are already mush.
I would recommend:
- Check if the pot has drainage and is light enough to store oxygen.
- Put it out and let it drip off.
- Don’t water too much in the winter. Keep the soil slightly moist and let the top layer dry off sometimes.
- Consider semi-hydro with clayballs. You can’t overwater, and if you still get root rot, you can act WAY faster (flushing, drying, etc.).
- And maybe add beneficial microbes, which will make the plant more resistant to root rot
