A follow up to yesterdays request for advice

Submitted ⁨⁨15⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago⁩ by ⁨Setiyeti93@lemmy.ca⁩ to ⁨3dprinting@lemmy.world⁩

https://lemmy.ca/pictrs/image/31377144-78f0-4091-8d7f-3a46353bb02f.jpeg

Much better! As you can see near perfect.

Before I go into any detail, let me please thank each and every person who commented on my last post. Reddit was my social media of choice way back when I first got this printer, and I recall having an issue then… And the advice on reddit was, nonexistent. within a few minutes of my post yesterday I had several thought out answers. And to my surprise, not one of them were simply “go buy x printer”.

So once again thank you for being such a good community!

Now regarding the print… The bed was cleaned with 99% IPA, I hadn’t realized just how superficial a lot of the marks on the print bed were! Came up a treat with alcohol!

I modelled a print to basically stretch across almost the entire width of the print bed, so that I could do a few iterative tests quickly. Simply cleaning the bed definitely increase the adhesion.

Next I bumped up the temperature of both the print head and bed. 220, and 85 dropping to 75 after 10 or so layers. Now this seemed a fraction higher than I would be happy with, but you can’t argue with results? And I did use a few different methods to double check the temperatures involved and they were relatively close.

More is a proof of concept at this point, i made a relatively dilute PVA solution and wiped it across the surface… Definitely overkill but by this point the print was adhering perfectly.

But I’d like to share with everyone here, a revelation. Using only cutting edge techniques, that is, my eyes… I read the label on the side of the spool which quite clearly said PETG. Which might explain a little bit of my difficulty 😂

Thanks again to everyone in the community.

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Comments

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PlasticExistence@lemmy.world ⁨14⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago
Yeah PETG does require different temperatures than PLA. Glad you got it sorted

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- peregrin5@piefed.social ⁨14⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago
  in fact I'm surprised 220 worked. PETG for me usually requires 230-250
  
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  - Setiyeti93@lemmy.ca ⁨12⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago
    I might have got lucky. but I also had every chance to succeed between the surface prep and the slow inital layers.
    
    But a lessons learn definitely apply to all types of printing. I’ve done a couple of pla prints since… and they are perfect.
    
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  - PlasticExistence@lemmy.world ⁨14⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago
    There’s a lot of variability in materials, even before you get into the “+” or “pro” versions.
    
    I’ve been printing Voron parts in ASA plastic for the last several weeks, and some of what I’ve used smells very strong but prints best on the cool part of the range, others smell hardly at all but print better hot. (I’m filtering fumes, worry not)
    
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thisbenzingring@lemmy.sdf.org ⁨13⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago
I keep a box of the alcohol prep wipes near my printer. Give it a good wipe down before every print, does wonders. Sometimes when that fails, I clean the plate with dawn and water and dry it off really good. Then give it another once over with the alcohol

if you do a lot of PETG and PLA, you should probably make sure that you have different printing plates or surfaces. Because they won’t play well together in the long term.

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- zerodawn@leaf.dance ⁨12⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago
  I prefer micro fiber cloth and rubbing alcohol. There’s an stl where you cut the micro fiber into strips and attach it to thee face of a “scrubber”. Gives you a handle ti hold and a flat surface to put against the print plate.
  
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- Setiyeti93@lemmy.ca ⁨13⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago
  Truthfully it was so long ago I can’t even recall why I got the PETG to begin with.
  
  For my purposes PLA has always worked fine. The only other filament I’ve really been interested in is tpu, but I think I want to end up getting something dedicated for that type of work… If I convince myself it’s worth it.
  
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