Comment on Biqu B1 - Not heating the hotend
UncleStewart@sh.itjust.works 3 months agoYeah, it’s a pretty standard setup. The previous owner put a BLTouch on the printer but never got it to work. I’ve had the printer for about 2 weeks and was about to figure this ABL out, but it misses the ABL option in the menu.
I’m pretty new in the 3D print business and know nothing about flashing, compiling, and all the options you can do. You recommend the SKR MINI 3.0, and i didn’t know i could change the mobo to other than the original SKR V1.4. What are the benefits of changing to the SKR MINI? And, no, I’m not in the US. But I’ll find it here in Norway…
And Klipper? Not heard of that either, but a fast youtube peek tells me that this too might be interesting…
papalonian@lemmy.world 3 months ago
That’s what’s great about (most) printers, you can do whatever you want with them 😁
That’s because you’re using the stock firmware, which was not compiled with the bltouch in mind. If you want to get that working, you’d have to flash a different firmware, at which point I’d highly recommend Klipper, maybe I’m just bad at using Marlin (the other popular 3d printing firmware) but compiling firmware for it was a million times more difficult than getting klipper working
UncleStewart@sh.itjust.works 3 months ago
SKR MINI V3 and a Rasperry Pi 4 (for Klipper) is ordered and in the mail…
Shit, what have i done. Haha
papalonian@lemmy.world 3 months ago
You’ve added another notch to you nerd belt!
That’s the exact setup I’ve got. Let me know if you have any questions or issues getting things set up. Once you have it figured out you’ll wonder why anyone uses marlin… there’s just so much available. With marlin, literally everything is baked directly into the firmware, and unless you compiled it yourself or dug through the code you’ve got no idea what’s going on with the printer. Set up a retraction tower? Better hope it was set up right because marlin won’t tell you current retract settings. Leveled your bed? Better hope that the numbers stick and the mesh is actually applied to prints.
With Klipper, not only is all of that easily configurable by editing a text file, all of that information is available directly in the GUI. Want your printer to do something else at the start of every print? Just change your start up macro. Realize that you set the wrong retract distance in your slicer? Just change the setting in the GUI. Start a print job with 5 models and one of them starts to fail? Don’t cancel the whole print, just the part that’s failing.
These are just off the top of my head improvements and there’s literally dozens if not hundreds more. What have you done? You’ve elevated.
UncleStewart@sh.itjust.works 3 months ago
I only have questions.
First things first, i probably should get control on the cables and their markings before i take out the old mainboard.
I’ll start this adventure as soon as the parts arrive. Parts are still in the mail somewhere…
Thanks for offering to help me out here.