Comment on Biqu B1 - Not heating the hotend

• papalonian@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

  You don’t want to read the resistance of the heater. You want to find the voltage being sent to the heat cartridge.

  When you’re able to, disconnect your heat cart and stick your multimeter probes in the socket (or touch the top of the cable screws), and heat the nozzle. Should read 24v IIRC. Based on your answer to my other comment, my assumption is the number will not change when you turn on the heater, implying board or mosfet failure.

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  • Damage@feddit.it ⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

    You want to do both

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  • UncleStewart@sh.itjust.works ⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

    Home, and done some measuring.

    1. measurement:
       Just started the printer: 1,24 VAC
       Preheating the nozzle: 0,00 VAC
       After error beep: 1,24 VAC
    2. measurement:
       Just started the printer: 1,57 VAC
       Preheating the nozzle: 0,00 VAC
       After error beep: 1,57 VAC

    Old heater: 13,6 Ohm
    New heater: 14,6 Ohm

    So, no power to the nozzle heater. Now, how to verify the mosfet?

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  • UncleStewart@sh.itjust.works ⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

    I will measure the voltage when I get back home later today. It probably will show no volts, so which board is defect? The little one in the hotend or the board on the other side of the USB-C cable? How to verify the mosfet? Image

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    • papalonian@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

      so which board is defect? The little one in the hotend or the board on the other side of the USB-C cable?

      My money is on the main board inside the printer. The “board” on your hotend (if it’s like others) doesn’t really have any computers or controllers on it, it’s more like a fancy cable connector between the main board and those components.

      If you test the voltage and get nothing, it’s either the main board or the mosfet for the heater. If you test it and it gives you a stable 24v, the problem lies somewhere between the main board and the heat cartridge (cable, connector, the hotend board, cartridge itself).

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      • UncleStewart@sh.itjust.works ⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

        Image

        1. Power from PDU = OK
        2. Power to bed heater = OK
        3. Looks like power to the nozzle heater = same results as when checking volts directly on the hotend.
        4. Empty

        #3 goes up to a board back on the printer. This board has multiple outlets, and one USB-C that goes up to the hotend.

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