Comment on [Troubleshooting] It's the clog guy again - temp readings are bad!
tristan@aussie.zone 2 months ago
I changed the thermistor “sensor type” from “EPCOS 100K B57560G104F” (same as the bed) to “Generic 3950”, no change.
What actual thermistor are you using?
Also since I’m half asleep and too lazy to read the previous posts to see if you listed it, what motherboard and hotend
papalonian@lemmy.world 2 months ago
I’m using a 3950. Funny thing, all my previous thermistors were also 3950s, but Klipper has always been set to the EPCOS 100k sensor. Looking them up, there should only be a couple degrees difference between the two, and changing between the sensor types didn’t do anything for me, so I don’t think it’s that.
It’s a robin nano 2.1 mobo, not sure what you mean by “what hotend” it’s a Frankenstein of various heat blocks, heat breaks, etc. not an all-in-one or anything like that. It’s been rebuilt probably a half dozen times during the duration of this issue; I’ve confirmed the issue has nothing to do with any of the physical components of the printer (ie stepper motors/drivers, loose connections etc).
tristan@aussie.zone 1 month ago
Well the reason I asked about the hotend was because of you’re using the little glass bead version of the thermistor, and the hotend has the hole to feed through, I had an issue on an old Frankenstein ender where it wasn’t touching the metal inside correctly… As it heated up, it would kind of move the thermistor away from the metal. I solved this by putting a DIY metal shroud on it that held it in the middle while touching the hotend all around. I also used thermal paste to make sure there was no gaps.
papalonian@lemmy.world 1 month ago
I see; though, a thermistor not making good contact with the heat block would imply the heat block is hotter than reported, not the other way around.
This glass thermistors are a nightmare. I kept accidentally ripping the leads off mine. During this whole debacle, I treated myself to a fancy thermistor that is built into the end of an M3 bolt - it screws in to the hole meant for the grub screw that normally keeps the glass ones in place.