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Comment on This is because of a filthy print sheet, right? (more pictures inside)

Not OP, but I have a printer (Ender 3 v2 Neo) with a z-probe that when you tell it to autolevel, it sets the bed and nozzle target temperatures to 0°. (As in, turns both heating elements off.) That’s on the manufacturer’s stock firmware. Even if you preheat before autoleveling, by the time it’s done leveling, it’s much cooler. So autoleveling hot is sometimes not an option.

All that said, I’ve never had anything like the issues OP has on my Ender 3 v2 Neo. But maybe OP has a bigger bed and that might make a difference as to whether autoleveling on a cold bed could cause OP’s issue.

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SaveTheTuaHawk@lemmy.ca ⁨5⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

I have a printer (Ender 3 v2 Neo) with a z-probe that when you tell it to autolevel, it sets the bed and nozzle target temperatures to 0°. (As in, turns both heating elements off.)

Why I stopped buy Creality printers. And the features that never arrived. heating beds are coils under aluminum, so the plate will differentially expand when heated. Measuring the mesh cold is a waste ot time.

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- TootSweet@lemmy.world ⁨5⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  
  Measuring the mesh cold is a waste ot time.
  
  You say that, but it’s a hell of a lot better than nothing. I remember the days of not having no Z-probe on my other printer and not being able to use more than (generously) a 3"x3" square of my 8"x8" bed without really bad bed adhesion issues and no amount of manual leveling would help. Even on the aforementioned Ender 3 V2 Neo, I almost never have bed adhesion issues. My estimation of my experience is that leveling a cold bed is about 97.5% as helpful as leveling the bed hot.
  
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