Comment on Does it make sense that a fridge relay start winding would get only 20 volts from the thermostat?
Onomatopoeia@lemmy.cafe 3 days agoI wouldn’t expect a transformer anywhere, I was just shooting in the dark. That would make no sense to me, but I’ve seen crazy stuff in appliances.
A better test may be to forcibly energize the relay so it closes. If it closes and the motor starts, the problem is in the thermostat. If it closes but the motor doesn’t start, the relay is the problem.
diyrebel@lemmy.dbzer0.com 2 days ago
By this, I assume you mean to hotwire the relay. I was actually planning on that. But then when I saw that the thermostat was sending 20V to what seems to be ultimately the start winding pin, it triggered me to first start this thread.
I am confused because I would expect there to just be two wires going to the relay. I believe it’s the relay’s job to break that into 3 pins. The relay has a connection that clearly goes to the common pin, which is the load. There is also a connection marked “N” for neutral, which goes to the run pin. The voltage across those two pins (coming from the thermostat) is 230v. So far, that’s all expected.
But then there is a 3rd wire from the thermostat going to (what I think is) a line that ultimately leads to the start pin. There is 20V across that and the load. So how do I hotwire that? I would obviously connect the load to and the neutral wires to their respective inputs, but I don’t know if it’s safe to jump the neutral to that 3rd input (which I think is the start pin). There is like ~54 ohms between the start and run inputs on the PTC relay.