diyrebel

Did you read the manual first? Some kettles have a silencing feature when you press a not-so-obvious combination of buttons.

Thanks for the info! I think I would have to destroy it to open it, but someone tells me it sometimes works the flood isopropal alcohol in it and hope it reaches the needed area. So that is what I have done.

The board gives no part number if I need to replace the encoder. I wonder if I can hack this by soldering wires to the contacts of the encoder and touch two wires together to make it register a rotary step.

That looks like it’s for a hollow wall. The middle looks like it’s meant to bend to a huge diameter. If that were inside a brick hole, wouldn’t it just make around 1mm of contact at the point where it bends?

This shows ribbed plastic as suitable for masonry.

The load is a bicycle. The bike is probably around 15kg. It’s at a 45° angle so the load would be a little more than half the weight (assuming it’s the cosine of 45°, not sure), plus the rack… all of which is well supported by cabinet hooks that take the sheer load. So the anchor in question is just holding the 45° angle of it all.

The metal anchors you show would take on much more load. I’m not sure if I need them. How removable are they?

Why were you drilling if it’s an existing hole?

It was not a freshly drilled hole. I would always use the same size bit as the anchor diameter so I remembered that. A 10mm anchor in a 12mm hole would also be very loose which is not the case here.

I just now drilled a bit more after realising that the anchor should probably be flush with the brick, not the 10mm of plaster layered on top of it.

You’re using a masonry bit with a hammer setting right?

Yeah, and in fact it’s not just a hand drill with a hammer setting but a proper hammer drill with a shock absorber, a grease reservoir, and STS mounted bits (or whatever they are called). Before I bought the big gear I used a standard drill with hammer setting on poured concrete and it melted one of my bits because it had a weak hammer and spun fast enough to make the bit molten red hot.

I wouldn’t re-use this thing. This is the cheap type that comes free with things that need to be fixed to a wall.

Maybe too late to change now but I might consider a different anchor if it fails to hold my bicycle. I ended up drilling 10mm deeper so that I could push the anchor to be flush with the brick (thus 10mm recessed below the plaster layer). I also added a metal shard about the size of a toothpick between the anchor and brick. It’s holding for now but does not feel rock-solid.

Sounds like chemical anchor, which is a 2-component epoxy. I used that when installing anchors on my roof to use for abseiling. Did that because my life depended on it. But otherwise I try to avoid chemical anchors because they cannot be removed later. I could get out an angle grinder at that point, but there may be a day when I decide to remove all the render to expose the natural brick, in which case the anchor would always be an eyesore.

what instructions?

Plastic ribbed anchors will work on concrete/brick/masonry (though I assume only solid brick, which is what I have).

The difference is load. One of the charts I linked gives a quite low load rating for plastic anchors compared to metal ones. I think they have incorporated a big safety factor but in any case I am below the load limit.

Thanks! That answers my original question. 6 or 7mm will work according to this spec.

Using these plastic anchors is basically a destructive process, so I don’t see an issue with the screw cutting into the plastic.

I don’t care about the plastic but my concern is that I would make it so tight that it cracks the brick.

Another issue is often that you have hollow core bricks a

I’m sure the bricks a solid; likely 150+ years old, back when all bricks were solid. But since they are old, they are probably fragile despite being solid.

The substraight is brick (and I think it’s solid brick not the modern day hollow bricks). But brick seems to not have the ingrity of concrete as it crumbles. So after I drill I vaccum out the debris. There are no instructions because I am in fact reusing an anchor. I had a 6mm screw in it before and I think it spun freely before until screwed. I removed the screw to hang something slightly heavier. The two little wings are a bit out of shape which I think is why it spins. But I suppose that’s just to ensure it doesn’t spin while screwing and serve no pull-out strength.

Now that you triggered me to think on this more… I suppose that’s my problem. I either need a new anchor or I need to pack something in to stop it spinning when screwing.

I have some on hand. Maybe I’ll try it. Thanks for the suggestion.

I appreciate the guidance. But I think I can rule out insulation breakdown because I just removed the cover to the tacho generator and the ring magnet was broken in two pieces.

Thanks for the feedback! So I guess I should buy a megger. Wow… not cheap. I think I see these at local 2nd hand street markets. I often thought “what strange multimeter… so few functions” but I didn’t realize what I was looking at. I will look for something that dials “500V” and has fewer modes than a multimeter, and ideally a “MΩ” printed somewhere although it looks like they won’t all print that on the device.

I suppose I could try to bring the motor into an appliance repair shop and pay them to test it with a megger.

As far as diagnosis of the whole machine-- suppose it’s true that I have an insulation failure. The control panel LEDs light up correctly when powered on, then when I try to start a program the start button just blinks. Does it seem viable or likely that faulty insulation would cause the controller to behave that way? I get the impression that the blinking LED means the controller detected an unspecified fault of some kind & refused to continue, which tempts me to think that the controller is functioning correctly – unless it’s a false positive of a failure.

I really want to avoid replacing multiple major parts because I don’t imagine I can return special ordered parts.

Right but I think that safety capacitor (SC) is the last thing I care about. IIUC, I could perhaps even simply bypass the SC because it’s merely improving the power quality. It’s not worth buying an SC if I fail to fix whatever else is broken. If I could get the machine working, I could then of course consider replacing the SC as a final protective measure.

The task at hand is testing every essential component of the washing machine, starting with the motor and tacho. I would like to understand what happened with the SC and motor though. Did I wire the motor wrong which caused the SC to flash and produce bad output for a moment? I don’t want to repeat that. I could power the motor directly without the SC, but if the motor is doing upstream damage then I guess I wouldn’t want my breaker box on the chopping block.