diyrebel

I have some on hand. Maybe I’ll try it. Thanks for the suggestion.

I appreciate all the advice! I still have to dig up the exterior but there is no growth of any kind on the interior side of the beam. It’s drying out and getting less soft as it dries, but still soft enough that I can stick needles in it ~2cm. The bottom side is the softest. I used a syringe to squirt in some wood hardener.

I am tempted to use pro-grade hydro PVA and plasticizer in the exterior concrete then finish with a waterproofing clearcoat that claims to still allow breathing. I believe that will mitigate rain saturating the facade. But on the inside wall I am tempted to not even plaster and just leave the brick and wood exposed. I would then expect water to not penetrate from the outside, but if it does so anyway then at least it could breath on the inside. I can also monitor it that way.

Are you sure all that humidity is coming from the outside? It looks like a really weird spot for that to happen

I did not post a pic of the whole facade, but to the right of the plant is an overhang that prevents water from getting on the facade. This section has no overhang so rainwater runs down the facade. A few years ago part of the facade was cracking and I re-rendered that part of the facade. After a rain, the new part of the facade remains bright in color which indicates water does not penetrate. But in the bad area, the gray surface becomes notably darker, which suggests water is penetrating.

Why can’t you access the upper floor? Is this an apartment building and someone else lives above you?

I have access to the whole house. The interior pics are of the top floor. What I meant by not accessing the top of the beam is just that the ceiling is in the way. I could remove the drywall on the ceiling corner to get access to more of the beam. I will first dig up the exterior facade and see if that exposes the top of the beam. If not, then I would remove a bit of the ceiling.

What’s in the black tube?

I’m not sure what you are referring to. My exteriour pic is terrible (bad camera). On the interior pic, there is a grey cable, probably a/c to the ceiling light. The blackness to the left of that is not a tube but simply a missing brick. It had plaster and insulation foam before I got to it. But now it is just a hole. If you mean the exterior, it’s just a terrible pic. Above the plant is a wood panel that is really warped from getting wet. I installed it new a few years ago but got something wrong. It may not have been treated wood, I don’t recall. I thought painting it would be sufficient but clearly not in the section that has no overhang.

Perhaps you have already checked, but I’d try to rule out any infiltration coming from above, otherwise it will keep happening and it could get worse.

I will know more after I dig up the facade. But note that the roof is right above and just to the right of the plant (off picture) is the downspout. It’s clear, but I suppose I have to wonder if it’s possible that water puddles at a bottleneck right where the downspout is.

I probably need something like this:

Image

That’s the US version of what I think I need.

I appreciate the guidance. But I think I can rule out insulation breakdown because I just removed the cover to the tacho generator and the ring magnet was broken in two pieces.

Thanks for the feedback! So I guess I should buy a megger. Wow… not cheap. I think I see these at local 2nd hand street markets. I often thought “what strange multimeter… so few functions” but I didn’t realize what I was looking at. I will look for something that dials “500V” and has fewer modes than a multimeter, and ideally a “MΩ” printed somewhere although it looks like they won’t all print that on the device.

I suppose I could try to bring the motor into an appliance repair shop and pay them to test it with a megger.

As far as diagnosis of the whole machine-- suppose it’s true that I have an insulation failure. The control panel LEDs light up correctly when powered on, then when I try to start a program the start button just blinks. Does it seem viable or likely that faulty insulation would cause the controller to behave that way? I get the impression that the blinking LED means the controller detected an unspecified fault of some kind & refused to continue, which tempts me to think that the controller is functioning correctly – unless it’s a false positive of a failure.

I really want to avoid replacing multiple major parts because I don’t imagine I can return special ordered parts.

Right but I think that safety capacitor (SC) is the last thing I care about. IIUC, I could perhaps even simply bypass the SC because it’s merely improving the power quality. It’s not worth buying an SC if I fail to fix whatever else is broken. If I could get the machine working, I could then of course consider replacing the SC as a final protective measure.

The task at hand is testing every essential component of the washing machine, starting with the motor and tacho. I would like to understand what happened with the SC and motor though. Did I wire the motor wrong which caused the SC to flash and produce bad output for a moment? I don’t want to repeat that. I could power the motor directly without the SC, but if the motor is doing upstream damage then I guess I wouldn’t want my breaker box on the chopping block.