diyrebel

That looks like it’s for a hollow wall. The middle looks like it’s meant to bend to a huge diameter. If that were inside a brick hole, wouldn’t it just make around 1mm of contact at the point where it bends?

This shows ribbed plastic as suitable for masonry.

The load is a bicycle. The bike is probably around 15kg. It’s at a 45° angle so the load would be a little more than half the weight (assuming it’s the cosine of 45°, not sure), plus the rack… all of which is well supported by cabinet hooks that take the sheer load. So the anchor in question is just holding the 45° angle of it all.

The metal anchors you show would take on much more load. I’m not sure if I need them. How removable are they?

Why were you drilling if it’s an existing hole?

It was not a freshly drilled hole. I would always use the same size bit as the anchor diameter so I remembered that. A 10mm anchor in a 12mm hole would also be very loose which is not the case here.

I just now drilled a bit more after realising that the anchor should probably be flush with the brick, not the 10mm of plaster layered on top of it.

You’re using a masonry bit with a hammer setting right?

Yeah, and in fact it’s not just a hand drill with a hammer setting but a proper hammer drill with a shock absorber, a grease reservoir, and STS mounted bits (or whatever they are called). Before I bought the big gear I used a standard drill with hammer setting on poured concrete and it melted one of my bits because it had a weak hammer and spun fast enough to make the bit molten red hot.

I wouldn’t re-use this thing. This is the cheap type that comes free with things that need to be fixed to a wall.

Maybe too late to change now but I might consider a different anchor if it fails to hold my bicycle. I ended up drilling 10mm deeper so that I could push the anchor to be flush with the brick (thus 10mm recessed below the plaster layer). I also added a metal shard about the size of a toothpick between the anchor and brick. It’s holding for now but does not feel rock-solid.

Sounds like chemical anchor, which is a 2-component epoxy. I used that when installing anchors on my roof to use for abseiling. Did that because my life depended on it. But otherwise I try to avoid chemical anchors because they cannot be removed later. I could get out an angle grinder at that point, but there may be a day when I decide to remove all the render to expose the natural brick, in which case the anchor would always be an eyesore.

what instructions?

Plastic ribbed anchors will work on concrete/brick/masonry (though I assume only solid brick, which is what I have).

The difference is load. One of the charts I linked gives a quite low load rating for plastic anchors compared to metal ones. I think they have incorporated a big safety factor but in any case I am below the load limit.

Thanks! That answers my original question. 6 or 7mm will work according to this spec.

Using these plastic anchors is basically a destructive process, so I don’t see an issue with the screw cutting into the plastic.

I don’t care about the plastic but my concern is that I would make it so tight that it cracks the brick.

Another issue is often that you have hollow core bricks a

I’m sure the bricks a solid; likely 150+ years old, back when all bricks were solid. But since they are old, they are probably fragile despite being solid.

The substraight is brick (and I think it’s solid brick not the modern day hollow bricks). But brick seems to not have the ingrity of concrete as it crumbles. So after I drill I vaccum out the debris. There are no instructions because I am in fact reusing an anchor. I had a 6mm screw in it before and I think it spun freely before until screwed. I removed the screw to hang something slightly heavier. The two little wings are a bit out of shape which I think is why it spins. But I suppose that’s just to ensure it doesn’t spin while screwing and serve no pull-out strength.

Now that you triggered me to think on this more… I suppose that’s my problem. I either need a new anchor or I need to pack something in to stop it spinning when screwing.

I have some on hand. Maybe I’ll try it. Thanks for the suggestion.

For the moment I just disconnected the heating element and wired in a t-stat from a mini fridge. The heatin element could very well have been broken as long as I owned the fridge (it was given to me as a quite old 2nd hand fridge).

I guess I will keep my eye out for similar normal sized fridges that are trashed. Maybe I can harvest a heating element and combined t-stat like mine to recover the auto-defrosting function.

It’s a non-US fridge. But I’m curious about you calling it a heat pump fridge. The one thing all fridges worldwide have in common is using a compressor for refrigeration (or so I thought), which is the same as a heat pump but stressing that the goal is to cool rather than heat a space. Are there US fridges that do not use a compressor?

The mystery component is hiding behind the plate. If I follow the two white wires from the thermostat, they go behind the plate and make a loop that attaches to the backside of the plate.

I mean, you could also say the plate is a mystery to me as well. I’m quite baffled by this fridge because it’s nothing like the videos I’ve seen on fridges. The plate must be cooling the fridge compartment because there is no vent coming from the freezer.

I should mention that the /load/ wire that the mystery component connects to is the /return/ load going to the compressor. But that connection jumps to the t-stat. So I think it cannot be a cut-off because it’s wired in parallel to the compressor’s load input.

So from how it’s wired, I think it’s expected to be a heating element. But it’s not warming the plate when hotwired. So maybe is a broken heating element… but yet it has continuity (14.15 kΩ). So I am baffled for sure.

I guess I can only hope that someone has seen this bizarre Zanussi/AEG design before.

resistence measures at 14.15 kΩ

In that case, I suppose I should wire it in series with the “new” (harvested) thermostat that will be the replacement. Then both the t-stat and the mystery component would be able to open the circuit.

I suppose I could test it… if I warm up the plate with a heat gun, I could see if the mystery component acts like a thermal breaker.

I posted a pic in a reply but the component is hidden behind the metal plate.

I wonder if it is a thermal fuse, then I don’t know what would warm the plate. It has a coil of refrigerant which you can see in the pic… just one loop of coolant. I’m baffled that it’s enough to cool the whole fridge compartment. As far as getting warm, I wonder if the compressor could somehow run in reverse and push hot refrigerant through the coil to defrost things?

I would really be hard-pressed to get a pic of the Zanussi 19/4 that’s worth 1k words in this situation. The backside of the plate is inaccessible. Every time I pull the plate forward to get an eyeball back there I worry that a tube carrying coolant will break. Not sure how many times I can bend it but I’ve bent it dozens of times already.

I found the manual online somewhere but it’s almost useless. Perhaps this excerpt is useful though:

Defrosting

Frost is automatically eliminated from the evaporator of the refrigerator compartment every time the motor compressor stops, during normal use. The defrost water drains out through a trough into a special container at the back of the appliance, over the motor compressor, where it evaporates.

It is important to periodically clean the defrost water drain hole in the middle of the refrigerator compartment channel to prevent the water overflowing and dripping onto the food inside. Use the special cleaner provided, which you will find already inserted into the drain hole.

The freezer compartment, however, will become progressively covered with frost. This should be removed with the special plastic scraper provided, whenever the thickness of the frost exceeds 4 mm.

This is a pic of the front side of the metal plate: pic of metal plate in fridge compartment

There are two white wires and a ground wire going from the blob on the right to behind the plate. The wires run in a loop inside some coil of tube.

Below the plate is a V shaped trim on the inside back wall below the metal plate. I guess water drips off the plate into the V and through a hole that leads to a drip tray on the back of the fridge. I guess I would expect water to condense and drip… but maybe it needs help. Maybe the mystery component that I can’t get a pic of is a heating element. But I don’t get why the plate does not get warm when hotwired.

Maybe 2 things are broken… maybe the t-stat broke and perhaps the heating element was already broken. I’m tempted to ignore (what I think is) the heating element.

I think I’m done buying washing machines. I have been hand-washing my clothes for over a year now. If I buy a machine, I become part of the problem… I become part of the financial support system for the scandals.

I can’t quite tell from what you describe if Samsung did something wrong. It seems reasonable to have a sensor. But if it’s too sensitive and gets false positives, then indeed that’s junk.

I think nothing is worse than what I experience with Beko: secret codes that force us to trash machines where all components work, but the manufacturer will not reveal the secret code that enables the machine to run. Nothing is more infuriating.

Controller boards tend to cost about as much as a complete working 2nd-hand machine.

I have not checked yet for the machine at hand, but my other Beko which is also trapped in an error state and the parts shops can no longer get the controller board. Beko themselves cannot get one either. And I must say, replacing hardware to change the state of software is not an acceptable solution for me.

A jumper, I can handle. But I need the information. In fact that’s all I need – information. Which pins need a jumper?

I appreciate the effort. That manual is for a model beginning with ZFC, and mine is simply Z… I tried anyway, despite generally refusing to deal with the manual cartels. I could not get past the reCAPTCHA forced by manualslib. But I doubt it would help anyway. What I need is a service manual containing the resistence measurements. User manuals never have that info. The slightly different manual that I have (ZD 19/4 D) does not have anything useful.

Regarding fixpart.co.uk, I just get 403 forbidden on that site.

I’m not sure to what degree it helps, but if your problem with acquiring a part is geographical in nature I’m in Ireland, and am happy to get and mail the part for you if it is available in either EU or the UK. Good luck and keep us posted!

I appreciate the generous offer! I’ll keep that in mind but I will first try to diagnose more precisely which part I need… whether it is the relay or the thermostat. Then I will try to find it locally. If it’s the relay then I’m probably toast. But I might see if something universal can be rigged up.

oh wow! That looks close for sure. Great find… I’m sure it will be useful. I’ll look at it more later today.

Thanks!

(update) By searching for B7S B7SLED, I found the same service manual with a filename the contained WMB 61431B. So it’s not exact. But it’s close enough to be useful. It’s perhaps showing the same error codes. Although the ultimate problem of resetting the error state is not well articulated in the WMB 61431B service manual so I am still looking for a more exact service manual. It’s really a long shot though because these service manuals are just templates of others anyway. I don’t expect to find what I need.

Thanks!

Indeed I need the heavily protected service manual… but nonetheless I’m still happy to have the correct user manual.