diyrebel

This shows ribbed plastic as suitable for masonry.

The load is a bicycle. The bike is probably around 15kg. It’s at a 45° angle so the load would be a little more than half the weight (assuming it’s the cosine of 45°, not sure), plus the rack… all of which is well supported by cabinet hooks that take the sheer load. So the anchor in question is just holding the 45° angle of it all.

The metal anchors you show would take on much more load. I’m not sure if I need them. How removable are they?

Why were you drilling if it’s an existing hole?

It was not a freshly drilled hole. I would always use the same size bit as the anchor diameter so I remembered that. A 10mm anchor in a 12mm hole would also be very loose which is not the case here.

I just now drilled a bit more after realising that the anchor should probably be flush with the brick, not the 10mm of plaster layered on top of it.

You’re using a masonry bit with a hammer setting right?

Yeah, and in fact it’s not just a hand drill with a hammer setting but a proper hammer drill with a shock absorber, a grease reservoir, and STS mounted bits (or whatever they are called). Before I bought the big gear I used a standard drill with hammer setting on poured concrete and it melted one of my bits because it had a weak hammer and spun fast enough to make the bit molten red hot.

I wouldn’t re-use this thing. This is the cheap type that comes free with things that need to be fixed to a wall.

Maybe too late to change now but I might consider a different anchor if it fails to hold my bicycle. I ended up drilling 10mm deeper so that I could push the anchor to be flush with the brick (thus 10mm recessed below the plaster layer). I also added a metal shard about the size of a toothpick between the anchor and brick. It’s holding for now but does not feel rock-solid.

Sounds like chemical anchor, which is a 2-component epoxy. I used that when installing anchors on my roof to use for abseiling. Did that because my life depended on it. But otherwise I try to avoid chemical anchors because they cannot be removed later. I could get out an angle grinder at that point, but there may be a day when I decide to remove all the render to expose the natural brick, in which case the anchor would always be an eyesore.

what instructions?

Plastic ribbed anchors will work on concrete/brick/masonry (though I assume only solid brick, which is what I have).

The difference is load. One of the charts I linked gives a quite low load rating for plastic anchors compared to metal ones. I think they have incorporated a big safety factor but in any case I am below the load limit.

Thanks! That answers my original question. 6 or 7mm will work according to this spec.

Using these plastic anchors is basically a destructive process, so I don’t see an issue with the screw cutting into the plastic.

I don’t care about the plastic but my concern is that I would make it so tight that it cracks the brick.

Another issue is often that you have hollow core bricks a

I’m sure the bricks a solid; likely 150+ years old, back when all bricks were solid. But since they are old, they are probably fragile despite being solid.

The substraight is brick (and I think it’s solid brick not the modern day hollow bricks). But brick seems to not have the ingrity of concrete as it crumbles. So after I drill I vaccum out the debris. There are no instructions because I am in fact reusing an anchor. I had a 6mm screw in it before and I think it spun freely before until screwed. I removed the screw to hang something slightly heavier. The two little wings are a bit out of shape which I think is why it spins. But I suppose that’s just to ensure it doesn’t spin while screwing and serve no pull-out strength.

Now that you triggered me to think on this more… I suppose that’s my problem. I either need a new anchor or I need to pack something in to stop it spinning when screwing.

I have some on hand. Maybe I’ll try it. Thanks for the suggestion.

I appreciate the guidance. But I think I can rule out insulation breakdown because I just removed the cover to the tacho generator and the ring magnet was broken in two pieces.

Thanks for the feedback! So I guess I should buy a megger. Wow… not cheap. I think I see these at local 2nd hand street markets. I often thought “what strange multimeter… so few functions” but I didn’t realize what I was looking at. I will look for something that dials “500V” and has fewer modes than a multimeter, and ideally a “MΩ” printed somewhere although it looks like they won’t all print that on the device.

I suppose I could try to bring the motor into an appliance repair shop and pay them to test it with a megger.

As far as diagnosis of the whole machine-- suppose it’s true that I have an insulation failure. The control panel LEDs light up correctly when powered on, then when I try to start a program the start button just blinks. Does it seem viable or likely that faulty insulation would cause the controller to behave that way? I get the impression that the blinking LED means the controller detected an unspecified fault of some kind & refused to continue, which tempts me to think that the controller is functioning correctly – unless it’s a false positive of a failure.

I really want to avoid replacing multiple major parts because I don’t imagine I can return special ordered parts.

Right but I think that safety capacitor (SC) is the last thing I care about. IIUC, I could perhaps even simply bypass the SC because it’s merely improving the power quality. It’s not worth buying an SC if I fail to fix whatever else is broken. If I could get the machine working, I could then of course consider replacing the SC as a final protective measure.

The task at hand is testing every essential component of the washing machine, starting with the motor and tacho. I would like to understand what happened with the SC and motor though. Did I wire the motor wrong which caused the SC to flash and produce bad output for a moment? I don’t want to repeat that. I could power the motor directly without the SC, but if the motor is doing upstream damage then I guess I wouldn’t want my breaker box on the chopping block.