Comment on Help please: heating block gooed up with PLA

• Fenderfreek@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago

  Sort of. As the previous poster pointed out, you need to make sure it’s assembled in a way that the nozzle is seated against the heat break inside the heater block, not against the heater block itself. You’ll have to do a complete disassembly to clean it up properly, and you may need to run a tap through the heater block to clean the threads, but when you assemble it, make sure that you back the nozzle off a turn or so, assemble the hot end so that the heater break is bottomed out against the nozzle, then heat it all up and torque the nozzle up snugly to the heatbreak. There are YouTube vids that will demonstrate hotend assembly better than I can explain it, but solid nozzle to heatbreak seal is critical for preventing this

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  • Prunebutt@slrpnk.net ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago

    and you may need to run a tap through the heater block to clean the threads

    I’ve cleaned the outside, but I don’t know what you mead by that. Could you explain how I fix the threading?

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    • Fenderfreek@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

      Most nozzles and heat breaks have M6x1mm threads, so they’re pretty standard (double check yours specifically). Lightly chasing the heat break threads with a tap should clean out any gunk and ensure that your heatbreak and nozzle threads engage properly when you reassemble everything again, and that things get torqued together correctly.

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      • Prunebutt@slrpnk.net ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

        Sorry, not an english native speaker, so I didn’t know what a tap was. Good thing that context made me not google myself to death with that non-SEO friendly term (it’s the drill thing that cuts threads inno holes).

        A new heating block is a bit cheaper and I got no use for a tap, so I just ordered a new one. Maybe I give the torching method a try, too before it arrives.

        Anywho: I understand the hotend way better now. I guess that’s worth the 4,50 in a new heating block. (:

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