Comment

2.4 owner chiming in. It’s a long build and you should probably skip the drag chains due to wire breaks. I am very happy with the printer and the community. Mods are readily available, the stock models are all open source so if you want to make your own mods it’s easy, etc. My printer is also extremely reliable - click print, walk away, come back to a completed print. You’ll need to do some klipper setup to get here, but it’s very achievable with some basic macros like Z Caliberation.

As for print volume, larger prints result in more warpage if you want to print in anything other than PLA. It’s all about chamber temps, but larger prints = larger printer = more surface area for your enclosure to lose heat. Big PETG prints needs an enclosure, but it doesn’t need to be that intense - I was fine with acrylic panels and even popped the top. Big ASA/ABS prints need an insulated enclosure, but I can now print large ASA things successfully. To go with your enclosure you’ll also need a method of actively hearing it. Bedfans, and under bed filtration, is how I dealt with this on my Voron. Since Vorons are designed for an enclosure, all the electronics are not inside the enclosure. I do not know if that’s the case for the Prusa.

source

Sort:hotnew top

snrkl@lemmy.sdf.org ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago
Mk4s owner here and I’m super unhappy with the output of my factory assembled mk4s, due to a consistent first layer problem. The mk4s is related to the core 1 as far as I know as the “next gen”.

Prusa seems to be aware of the issue, but I feel they are still messing around greatly with any kind of actual solution to the problem, that actually led me to pulling the pin on any work purchases from Prusa at all.

I actually got sent a second factory assembled mk4s as a “make good”, and the new unit had the exact same problem, right out of the box…

If I had my time again, I wish I’d have gone the Voron in some kind of pre-packed kit form…

source
- IMALlama@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago
  Not a Prusa user, but the title of that bug does look accurate - the first layer is too low. Does Prusa support bed mesh and is there a way of setting the zero point of the bed relative to whatever they’re doing for z-endstop?
  
  In klipper land there are solutions to this, but they’re not baked into the out of the box solution.
  
  On my Voron if I want to guarantee a good first layer, I must:
  
  let the bed temp stabilize after hitting temp for a bit. The bed is a nice thick piece of aluminum, which helps with consistent temp, but when the thermistor hits temp the top is still a little cool
  
  wipe the nozzle to get it clean since my printer uses the nozzle for homing z. There are mods to automate this
  
  bed mesh. This is available out of the box with klipper, but it will be turned off until you configure it and include it in print_start
  
  I use a z Caliberation macro to align the z height of my z end stop and my klicky bed probe that’s used for bed meshing. When setting this up, you need to make sure to use the same origin point as the bed mesh otherwise your first layer can be too low or too high
  
  My first layer is nearly aways flat. It will occasionally be too high or too low because there was a goober on the end stop or something else along those lines.
  
  Are you sure things are clean? Likewise, are you running a mesh? Have you tried adjusting z-offset up a touch?
  
  Honestly, I would start with first layer squish as you could easily be too low.
  
  source
ZagamTheVile@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago
How long was the build? I gotta say, it does look fun. And did you get a kit or source the parts yourself?

source
- IMALlama@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago
  I bought a BOM in a box from West3D. I would say the build took 40 hours or so. This includes figuring out what parts to print, mechanical assembly, wiring, and getting klipper up and running.
  
  source