elDalvini
@elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de
- Comment on Whats the best website to get Electronic components for small projects in Europe/Germany? 4 weeks ago:
If you can wait a couple weeks, AliExpress is going to be the cheapest.
eBay may be a bit more expensive, but it’s often my go-to because you can find everything and usually there are options with short shipping times.
For not too obscure parts, I would look at Reichelt, their prices are surprisingly low (especially if you bundle your orders to save on shipping costs).
- Comment on Optimal PSU fan placement 1 month ago:
It looks like you would want an even airflow through the whole PSU. The main heat-generating components are using the sides of the housing as a heat sink. I’m guessing the fan is mostly so the air inside the housing doesn’t get too warm, not to cool individual components.
Where is the original air exhaust? If it’s near the bottom of the picture, that would confirm my theory. In that case, I would keep the fan placement as close to original as possible (i.e. the blue square).
- Comment on 2 months ago:
You can use a boost converter to boost the 5V of an USB port to the 19V your notebook needs.
Assuming 5A output from a powerbank (which is probably about the max you will get without USB PD), you could theoretically get 0.55A at 19V. With the unavoidable inefficiencies, you will get less.
So, maybe enough to very slowly charge your notebook while it’s off. But when it’s turned on, the battery charge will still drop.
- Comment on [deleted] 2 months ago:
This seems to be a bug in the slicer. I’m seeing the same issue in OrcaSlicer if the skirt height is set to more than one layer (even if the skirt is disabled). This makes sense if a skirt is used (can’t print a continuous spiral if you have to switch between printing the object and the skirt), but not if it’s disabled.
What slicer are you using? If it’s a PrusaSlicer fork, this is likely the same bug.
- Comment on DC motor speed control 3 months ago:
From a cursory read of the datasheet, using the “dead time control” pin seems to be the way to go. Basically, this pin is used to set the voltage, while the error amplifier inputs (that’s the closest function to “over current protection” this chip has) are used to adjust the output according to the load. For your application, you probably don’t need to use them at all.
My instinct would be to disable the error amplifiers by connecting pins 1,2,15 and 16 to GND. You can then connect the wiper pin of the potentiometer to the deadtime control input, with the other pins of the potentiometer connected to GND and 3.3 V.
I haven’t worked with this chip before, so take this with a grain of salt. You should probably use a simulation tool to check the circuit before you start destroying chips.
- Comment on Post your Servernames! 6 months ago:
My router is called Jupiter, everything connected to it is named after a moon. Callisto, Ganymede, Thelxinoe, Kallichore are what I’m currently using.
- Comment on Only in Settings can you find Life's true meaning 7 months ago:
Windows is clearly superior. If you’ve had enough of the settings app, you can just switch to the control center!
- Comment on When Pi-hole is down? 9 months ago:
That’s why I don’t let every device decide individually. I know my router (FritzBox) prioritizes the pi-hole (it’s even called “preferred” and “alternative” DNS-Server in the UI)
- Comment on When Pi-hole is down? 9 months ago:
I have my pi-hole setup as the upstream DNS in my router, with cloudflare as a secondary DNS. That way, all my devices always use the router for DNS (since that’s what is advertised in my DHCP) and the router then uses pi-hole if it’s available, or cloudflare if it isn’t. But the individual device doesn’t get to choose between different servers.
- Comment on Printer not moving to expected coordinate 10 months ago:
You can try to disable software End-Stops with this gcode:
M211 S0Be aware though, if you do that, there is nothing preventing your printer from trying to move beyond the hardware limits and possibly destroying itself. You can enable the end-stops again with:
M211 S0 - Comment on Rebalancing the price to represent the value... 11 months ago:
Solvespace might be exactly what you’re looking for. It is FOSS and works well for simple models. Some functionality is missing though, for example chamfers and fillets.
- Comment on Is it safe to use a laptop charger to power two parallel 24v fans? 1 year ago:
Those adapters should definitely be fine for 24 V. Running the fans off 19 V will probably work, but they will run at slightly slower RPM (probably not a big problem for a filter).
- Comment on Power device with higher voltage battery and still get battery reading 1 year ago:
You could use a voltage divider followed by a unity-gain amplifier to lower the output impedance, about like this: Image (I think that circuit could work, but I haven’t thought about it a lot, so it might not)
- Comment on [deleted] 1 year ago:
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