HewlettHackard
@HewlettHackard@lemmy.ca
- Comment on My personal benchy: this one really tests a printer's capabilities 23 hours ago:
What about printing it in two halves the each have a flat bottom? Since the optical quality doesn’t matter, the line down the middle of the lens won’t matter.
- Comment on YSK that United has significantly escalated their war against basic economy passengers 3 weeks ago:
- Comment on Prusa MK4s launch (TLDR) 3 months ago:
This looks great! I’m super happy with my MK4, and have never had to do anything with it after the initial kit build and re-seating the LCD cable to fix some early screen-blanking issues.
I’ll probably skip this for my own printer since it seems like most (but not all) of the speed up comes from layer height, but $99 is not terrible for anyone who gets value from it. And anyone buying a new printer gets this stuff with no price increase, which is nice and makes the MK4/MK4S even easier to recommend.
I didn’t know how much more dimensionally accurate Prusa’s prints are compared to the competition, but it makes sense now why there are so many calibration models online if that just isn’t the way every printer works. I’ve designed some parts that need an 0.1mm first layer because I’ve never had any failures with that, but I guess if I share the STLs other people might have trouble.
- Comment on Let's talk about Prusa Printables contests. It might need some fixing. 4 months ago:
They definitely don’t know what they’re doing. They featured this one, which is a death trap. It has a disclaimer that it might not be safe above 120V, but it’s absolutely unsafe and a code violation in the US, where we use 120V (and are very litigious). The disclaimer says they’re trying to get it approved which implies they believe it could be and that the design is sound, but fundamentally it cannot meet code in the US for mains voltage use.
Even if the design were sound, there are material requirements, and having seen the quality of prints some people find acceptable, there’s no chance allowing random people online to print their own boxes is safe.
I think they basically run the contests and feature things based on “ooh this is neat” and “this will excite people to use 3d printers”. It’s a marketing thing, and I guess I accept it because I have low expectations of even pretty-good businesses. But if it’s illegal…someone should probably let them know.
- Comment on Best options for entry level 3D printing available these days? 6 months ago:
Well, that’s the key… “still being worth getting”. The $100 special Ender 3 at monoprice probably isn’t worth getting for many people because of the frustration involved.
And so in reality the best answer for the question depends on each individual’s time-money tradeoffs.
- Comment on YSK: it's not just Tesla, 1/3 of cars in built in the last ten years have passenger/rear windows that are almost impossible to break in an emergency. 8 months ago:
Now imagine you’ve been driving the Tesla for a long time and don’t ever use the manual release because you’re not supposed to so you don’t mess up the window. And then imagine you’re in a high-stress situation. That’s how having an unmarked backup can fail.
Plus, that handle doesn’t even look like a normal handle - I have never see a car where you pull up to exit instead of sideways away from the door.
- Comment on YSK: it's not just Tesla, 1/3 of cars in built in the last ten years have passenger/rear windows that are almost impossible to break in an emergency. 8 months ago:
On the other hand, if you never use the mechanical release and have spent a long time only driving your Tesla, wouldn’t it be possible to forget it’s there while in a high-stress situation?
- Comment on What is on your "things to 3d print" list? 8 months ago:
Lower cost products sometimes have more variability and maybe you got a good one from the factory.
- Comment on Why is this whole chunk of the model dissapearing? 8 months ago:
Or too thin (much less than one layer height)?
- Submitted 8 months ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 4 comments
- Comment on Advice on first 3D printer 9 months ago:
It’s not necessarily fluff; features do matter, but which ones matter and how much they matter is complicated. Do you want to tinker with a printer, or do you just want a tool that works?
If you want a tool, I recommend a Prusa or maybe a Bambu. My Prusa just does what I ask it to; I’ve done zero calibration, optimization, tweaking, etc. Cheaper printers often require understanding bed leveling, figuring out how to adjust them best, etc. or vary more copy-to-copy (so one Ender 3 might work great, while another might be a source of frustration) or require upgrades to really become enjoyable.
- Comment on Advice on first 3D printer 9 months ago:
Do you have a budget? Or is it just about making sure you’re getting your money’s worth (so $2000 is fine if it’s 10x better than a $200 printer)?
- Comment on Can too good adhesion be countered by lower bed temps? 9 months ago:
Yup. My kid found the idea hilarious when I explained why I’d swiped a washable glue stick from the arts and crafts box.
It hangs on well, but also makes removal easier.
- Comment on Can too good adhesion be countered by lower bed temps? 9 months ago:
You could always try it…
I use PEI instead of glass and find that a thin layer of glue stick works great for helping sticky materials release.
- Comment on [Advice Request]: managing thermal pads for SMD components in custom PCB 9 months ago:
Do I just connect thermal pads to the ground plane and call it a day?
Yup.
Wouldn’t that make the components hard to solder with hot air?
Sorry, I’ve never tried hot air assembly.
Do I make an isolated polygon that only acts as a thermal pad?
Ideally the copper area is big to spread out the heat. If you have an isolated polygon it can’t spread very far and buys you less cooling.
- Comment on One month ago, I didn't really know what 3D printing was. Yesterday, I designed in FreeCAD my first model and printed it. What an amazing experience. 10 months ago:
One other thing that occurred to me is squish. Just like your first layer issues, the plastic on every layer needs something beneath it to squeeze against so it converts from a circular tube to a flat, wide oval. Maybe your slicing didn’t have enough support or infill in the main body as compare to the final top surface? You could try increasing the horizontal shells.
By the way, I assume you did not turn on ironing, because that could also affect the surfaces differently if one got ironed and the other didn’t for some reason.
- Comment on Prusa MK4 vs Bambu P1S 10 months ago:
I’ve been really happy with the MK4 kit I built months ago. While I haven’t seen a Bambu in person, I’m pretty satisfied with the print speed and picked up an 0.6 nozzle in case I really want to print something bigger, faster.
I had seriously considered building a Voron Trident, but have no regrets about my decision to go with Prusa. It’s nice having a machine that didn’t require a bunch of tweaking; it was fun to build the kit but now it’s an appliance I don’t have to mess with; it’s almost like my Brother laser. I hit print, it prints*. (Asterisk because I have to clean the bed sometimes, occasionally I make a poor choice slicing and don’t add a support I needed, etc, but these aren’t printer-specific issues).
As far as bed-slinger vs coreXY, even Bambu recently released a new bed slinger, so I suspect the tradeoff is more complex than just “coreXY is better”. The whole “model flings around” just isn’t a problem I’ve seen in practice; maaaaaybe if you’re building exceptionally tall, thin structures that can’t be oriented properly it could matter but realistically most people are going to mostly print relatively small things. Even fast printers are slow; as soon as you use a printer you’ll realize that huge build volumes are absurd because big prints just take soooooooo loooooong even on fast machines. And there’s either upcoming support or existing support for bed-axis input shaping, since the slicer does know the amount of filament it’s extruding and can tell the firmware how much more the bed weighs as the print proceeds.
I don’t think Bambu printers are an unreasonable choice for people, but I think if Prusa is affordable to someone, their products are still a good choice.
- Comment on One month ago, I didn't really know what 3D printing was. Yesterday, I designed in FreeCAD my first model and printed it. What an amazing experience. 10 months ago:
It’d be interesting to see what it looked like in the slicer, just in case it’s obvious there.
And yeah, each new FreeCAD project I do builds on what I’ve learned and it gets easier to get better results.
- Comment on One month ago, I didn't really know what 3D printing was. Yesterday, I designed in FreeCAD my first model and printed it. What an amazing experience. 10 months ago:
Did you print the foot switch upside down and then flip it? If so, how does its other side look?
I can’t tell how the surface quality is by the knobs.
Your “main” top surface looks like under-extrusion.
- Comment on pretty basic but I made myself a less mess espresso basket prep ring thing. 10 months ago:
It’s interesting that previously you said bacteria and now you say plastic. You know a lot, so enlighten the rest of us. What’s the concern here? As others have pointed out, coffee hoppers are rarely cleaned by most people, and this never gets wet and mostly handles dry whole beans with a little bit of dry bean dust. PLA is theoretically food safe as a material itself (and used in plastic utensils and containers). What are we missing? Please explain thoroughly in a single long post, not a quip because too many of us aren’t understanding from short quips.
- Comment on What 2D printers do 3D printer people prefer? 11 months ago:
- Comment on Temporary pull-up during boot (ESP-01) 11 months ago:
The 7333A is a linear regulator, which means it drops voltage by converting power to heat. Typically those make sense when the input voltage is close to the output voltage or the load is very small. If it’s getting too hot, the load is high enough that the efficiency will be very bad…whether or not this is a problem depends on your application.
Some random site claims 170mA and another claims up to 400mA. 170mA * 8.7V (12V in minus 3.3V out) = about 1.5 watts, which is too much for a TO-92 package.
Can you use a tiny buck converter instead? Or a larger package for the linear regulator that can add a small heat sink?
As for your actual circuit, the second transistor is an interesting idea (you’re using it to invert the state so you can have the GPIO pulled in the non-problematic direction?) and I don’t have enough experience to give further suggestions.
- Comment on What 2D printers do 3D printer people prefer? 11 months ago:
Brother laser printers are great.
- Comment on Temporary pull-up during boot (ESP-01) 11 months ago:
I’m not entirely clear on the problem, but the circuit as drawn makes the microcontroller pin start high, then fall after some time. Do you need the microcontroller pin to have a different voltage than the transistor base (I assume when you said gate you mean base…gates are for FETs), or is this good enough?
- Comment on Temporary pull-up during boot (ESP-01) 11 months ago:
Would a circuit like this power-on reset circuit work for your application?
- Comment on Does anyone know what to call this sort of fan optimization or have any reading material on how it works or how to design them? 11 months ago:
They discuss it in some detail in one of the Voron Live talks - I think this one, which was the announcement video for Stealthburner. Lots of CFD combined with manufacturability testing and aesthetics mixed in too.
- Comment on Fusion 360 increasing annual price by $190 USD 11 months ago:
There was a bit of a learning curve but after a few days I found it works very well for my needs.
- Comment on Fusion 360 increasing annual price by $190 USD 11 months ago:
I’m curious what a parametric offset would be. If it is what I think it is, I’ve accomplished that with some construction geometry. Add a construction geometry line constrained appropriately (e.g. perpendicular to some other line, particular length, etc) and then use its other end to attach and constrain the offset line.
- Comment on Sanity check for LiFePO4 Charger Design 11 months ago:
LFP cells have excellent cycle life anyway (2000+ cycles); is it worth worrying about staying at 95%?
- Comment on What is the level of detail possible for 1:72 figures with PLA? 1 year ago:
Those are resin prints, not FDM prints. The print technology (FDM vs resin) is the bigger factor than the actual plastic used (PLA vs others).