moonshadow

We’ve been there before.

Genuinely cannot remember my first distro or who I got it from, but became the “linux guy” locally when Ubuntu was mass distributing install CDs to anyone who asked. Think it was v5? Early 2000s anyways. Got a few hundred, switched a decent chunk of the town over, got the school to do a linux lab

Clearly you should turn it into a gift for me, that’s generations newer than the headless laptop I’m using now lol. Fr tho, find someone who’ll appreciate it. Way too nice a rig to languish as a 3rd server/media box

It’s just water bro. Shower, laundry, drink it, whatever. I have a thousand gallon tank, nice family home might have 10k. No other water source

I haven’t had access to grid power in over 10 years and am pretty familiar with this stuff as part of day to day life. I do now have solar. Really don’t think me and everyone else I know have been getting this consistently “lucky” for this long across such a wide range of devices. The 11-15v a nominal 12v battery system normally experiences is not a huge amount of fluctuation, and I have yet to encounter a 12v device that couldn’t take it. On the contrary, I’ve tried much dumber stuff and gotten away with it. There’s a 9v piano keyboard and a 19v computer monitor wired straight into that same battery. The only time I’ve actually killed something is by reversing polarity. Voltage too low=won’t turn on, voltage too high=gets hot, and all these years of wiring up random scavengings to see what happens have taught me most gear is surprisingly tolerant/resilient

Hey, I have a lot of appreciation for the infrastructure you maintain so don’t take this the wrong way: you’re very confidently overcomplicating this one all over the thread. People run nominal 12v stuff direct from battery all the time and it’s fine. It’s the norm in RVs, boats, and off-grid housing. There’s usually quite a bit of wiggle room. The router I’m using right now won’t actually cut out until ~8v and sees almost 16 during my ancient lead acid battery’s eq cycles. It’s completely fine and has been for years. Not industrial or automotive grade by any means, a low-end Netgear from the thrift store.

You also state “while there is DC power the battery in a UPS isn’t used”. Assuming you mean AC that’s still not quite correct, it’s always being charged at least a little and tapping it for DC is perfectly fine.

That’s my advice to op, and a setup I’ve run before: replace the 12v battery attached to their existing UPS and wire the router/any other 12v devices right to it. A UPS is just a nicely packaged battery charger/inverter/transfer switch. Wiring them to larger/cheaper batteries that don’t happen to fit their casings is also entirely viable, as is running either of their outputs to a load panel. Sky’s the limit :)