daannii

X axis is off.

Yes. The left to right. Not top to bottom (z)

When the x axis is off, the auto bed leveler can compensate for it. For a while. Until it gets high off the bed.

Then the skew becomes more problematic.

Basically you need to adjust your x. (On the z rods).

Now I know how to do this on an ender 3 v3. But not your model.

But here is a link to the ender one so you can better understand the issue and how to fix it.

printables.com/…/853057-x-axis-leveling-blocks-gu… My x axis models.

I make a lot of functional stuff too. Unfortunately it’s usually something I need and not things other people need.

But I still post about half of those.

I think being able to make functional stuff has been a nice advantage.

I started with tinkercad and I still use it a lot for simple things I need.

For anyone intimidated by 3d design, I highly recommend starting with tinkercad.

It’s like MS paint. Very Basic. But gets you familiar with how digital painting works before jumping right into Photoshop or something.

Yeah the incentives are very good on makerworld.

I actually got my printer (A1 and ams) from points I earned from one model of mine that’ was popular (jumping spider).

100% paid for with points.

I was able to buy a A1 mini and ams lite a year later for my nieces and nephews. Though I think I’ll be taking it back cause they never use it.

But still. Was pretty cool I could buy all that with points from my free models.

Some people say I should sell them but on cults3d you can see how much people sell their models for and how many were sold.

I earn more making them free. It’s just the money is Bambu gift cards. I believe you can exchange points for actual money now but it’s like 30 cents on the Bambu dollar. So, I’ll just buy filament with it.

That’s some type of assist for settings. It’s not an ad and you don’t have to click it and it doesn’t pop up.

Most of my models have free licensing and all of them are free models.

The ones without open licensing are remixes so I can’t grant that. With the exception of one model I have restrictions on selling online only.

I don’t have a ton of models and maybe nothing you are looking for. A few toys. A few functional things.

But I wanted to make free models for people who can’t afford licensing.

I’m also on printables thingiverse cults3d but my makerworld account has more stuff posted on it.

The stl files are also on makerworld. Just click the down arrow next to “download 3mf” (green box) and select STL files.

I have detailed tutorials for my big projects like the cat clock and Harry Potter egg.

I get points when you download from makerworld (if you have a makerworld account) Which I use to buy filament. So I can make more free models.

So there is a reason I keep my makerworld account more up to date. To try to encourage downloads from there.

For example . I used up 4 rolls of filament to design my cat clock and it took me about 100 hours of design edits.

Plus I spent ~$50 on hardware for it.

It’s a free model. But I earn back some of my expenses by points on makerworld.

I make models as a hobby but I try to not spend too much to design anything. Cat clock was the worst offender. But it’s a pretty cool model (eyes and tail move)

Anywho. If you like anything I have , just scroll to the bottom of the description where I list if licensing is free.

Like I said. Most of my originals are with 1 exception. The cat clock. Online restrictions only.

But remixes have some restrictions because they aren’t fully mine.

makerworld.com/@Daann_ii

Meshroom

But you need a ton of photos.

The technique is called photogrammetry

Print a 1 or 2 layer thick rectangle the length of the seam. Maybe 1cm wide. and glue on top. Sort of like how you use tape.

Be sure to check the screws on the backside. You will need to take out the front three to access it.

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forum.bambulab.com/t/…/97626

How old is your printer. ?

I had near 2000 print hours and started having first layer problems. I did a lot of troubleshooting and nothing worked.

Ended up being that the heat block needed replaced. Even though it seemed to be functioning. It was causing flow errors or something.

It could also be that the screws around it get loose. That’s actually been most people’s issue but that wasn’t mine.

I replaced the heat block and it fixed it. Here is a link to the thing I’m talking about. Explains to check screws first before considering replacing the heat block.

Hopefully that’s your issue cause that’s easier to do than replacing the heat block.

A poor first layer may not be super noticeable at first. But the problem for me was it got worse over time and did result in prints lifting.

forum.bambulab.com/t/…/110665

My experience in manually changing filament on my old printer. : There was often tiny gaps between color layers that ultimately made the model weak. Sometimes blobs instead.

(I would pause and change filament at a specific layer to get a multicolor print without a multicolor printer).

To solve this I would add a cylinder object to the plate so that the first place the head went after a color change was to the cylinder to get the filament back up to the right flow rate.

The pressure changes from changing filament is why the printer usually does a quick line at the start of a print. And why it’s necessary for multicolor changes.

Yeah op. Rotate it so it’s printing with bottom and top being the open parts on the middle.

Rough sketch but hope this helps.

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