rug_burn
@rug_burn@sh.itjust.works
- Comment on Did you hear the news?! 8 months ago:
Haven’t heard. What’s up?
- Comment on Do you believe in life after love? 8 months ago:
But… do you believe in life after love???
Just fucking with you. I hate every note of every song she’s made, too
- Comment on Do you believe in life after love? 8 months ago:
Pfft. It’s obvious. Eddie Veddar
Oh wait…
- Comment on We've still got a few hours. 9 months ago:
Fuck 'em. Drink on the job. Don’t ruin your days off.
- Comment on 3d printed laundry hamper repair 9 months ago:
Love it when printers actually solve a problem!
- Comment on Deep 9 months ago:
Next time fuck someone who has a car
- Comment on Doing the important work 9 months ago:
Not all heroes wear capes
- Comment on Looking for Ender 3 V2 Hot End and DD Extruder 9 months ago:
I agree, if you’re not having issues and are otherwise happy with the output. I went the DD route after my extruder cracked, and at the time the (slight) speed increase I was able to get on my e3v2 was worth it. The NG setup is quite good if you do choose to go that route, however.
- Comment on I went back in time to kill Hitler but instead we fell in love and our romance averted the war but then I was kidnapped back to the present and Hitler's broken heart made him do WW2 anyway. AMA 10 months ago:
Does he like to cuddle after?
- Comment on Looking for Ender 3 V2 Hot End and DD Extruder 10 months ago:
I have the microswiss NG/DD setup on my ender, works considerably better than stock. It is expensive though. Note that the nozzle that comes with it isn’t hardened (at least mine wasnt), so if you’re going to do filled / abrasive filaments you’ll definitely want to change that out. Also note that once you change to DD your steps will need to be recalibrate, but the microswiss website walks you through all of it
- Comment on Toes out 10 months ago:
I am horrified by this
- Comment on Upgraded Ender 3v2 Issues 10 months ago:
Would seem odd, but if it seems like your leveling wheels are backing off, maybe the threads are worn on them? It would suck to replace them only to find out that wasn’t the issue though, but if you have a spare set / originals if you’ve upgraded, maybe see if those are more stable?
- Comment on Got an Ender V3 SE for Christmas- and successfully made my first print! Excited to dive into this hobby 10 months ago:
^^this. Also if you open up the screen, maybe someone tried to flash it and left the SD card inside, that will cause this too. Ask me how I know 🤦♂️
- Comment on The four houses dads belong to. 10 months ago:
Depends on which line of Makita you buy into I think. I have a right angle drill and the “good” angle grinder from them (not that xlock bullshit) and both get moderate use. Both are 5-ish years old and still work great.
- Comment on Prusa MK4 vs Bambu P1S 10 months ago:
I think it’s “Ze German” in me that wants to build a printer from scratch lol. That, and 350x350 core xy sounds like fun. I need to have at least three unfinished projects going at once to feel sane 🤣
- Comment on Prusa MK4 vs Bambu P1S 10 months ago:
How do you like the Qidi? Sorry I’ve been neglecting this group for a while if you’ve been “harping” on them… I saw a couple reviews and they looked interesting
- Comment on Prusa MK4 vs Bambu P1S 10 months ago:
Firmware is closed, yes. Bambu’s slicer is just a skinned version of Prusaslicer though. Which, tbh, is kind of scummy lol.
At some point I’ll take the Voron plunge, but for now I’ll just watch my p1s shake all over the place on its silly rubber feet 😂
- Comment on Prusa MK4 vs Bambu P1S 10 months ago:
Having finally seen a Prusa in action, I would have to say they’re both great printers (I have a p1p that I upgraded to a p1s). I understand the arguments against Bambu, but honestly if you’re not printing anything overtly illegal or truly creating things you plan on copyrighting, you’re fine, and if you are that paranoid, you can remove the tape behind the front faceplate and simply unplug the wifi antenna and just print from the SD card, just save in .3mf
Think of the two as Android (Prusa) vs Apple (Bambu). Both will do the job just fine, just depends on which ecosystem you prefer.
- Comment on i dont understand 10 months ago:
When i…
Woke up this mornin’…
- Comment on We live in a society 11 months ago:
It’s heavily diluted compared to what you used to be able to buy
- Comment on We live in a society 11 months ago:
Reminds me of this, and why you can’t easily get powdered caffeine anymore;
- Comment on We live in a society 11 months ago:
Hate to break it to you, but 100% of people who drink water either have or will die.
- Comment on We live in a society 11 months ago:
Holy fuck where has this lemonade been my whole life???!?!?!
If you never see me post again, tell my mom I loved her!
- Comment on Christmas buying advice? 11 months ago:
Make sure nothing is bent, cracked or otherwise broken. When assembling, make sure the z gantry is square - put the screws in loosely and slowly tighten them evenly, then before making them tight, make sure it’s square. Best bet for a beginner FDM machine is going to be a basic PLA.
- Comment on Christmas buying advice? 11 months ago:
The e3v3 looks like they at least corrected the major e3 issues, dual screws and abl out of the box. Looks like they’re cheap on Amazon now too, I’d imagine microcenter has them at the same price. I’d avoid any of the “lesser” ender 3 models at this point unless you’re really in a money crunch and absolutely love replacing/ upgrading parts. I do know the Sovol SV06 has a lot of followers and they do come highly recommended in roughly the same price point.
If she’s mainly going to be making cosplay stuff, make sure the build volume is adequate, or she’ll have to learn more advanced techniques for making parts in multiple pieces. I’d also recommend buying ANY Creality printer from someplace you can return/exchange it, their QC is all over the map.
- Comment on Issues with layer adhesion post bimetal heatbreak and hardened steel nozzle install. 11 months ago:
This. I’d avoid using the hardened nozzle until you have a filament that requires it (glow in the dark, wood, CF, etc). Between the part cooling fan and the poor thermal conductivity of the steel (assuming you do have the nozzle fully tightened), it’s an uphill battle. If you really need that nozzle more or less permanent, try using an enclosure to keep ambient temps up, but note PLA doesn’t necessarily do well in enclosures that get too hot
- Comment on Why am I having to level my Ender 3 s1 after every print? 1 year ago:
I ran into this with my e3v2 a LOT. Are you heating up the bed and nozzle before you level? You may have answered that and I missed it. Also, I’m not sure how well those silicon things work, I did the “yellow springs” and then make them all equally tight, then level by loosening. Another thing to check- is your build surface flat? Check when cold and hot. My glass bed wound up warping up near the middle ever so slightly and that would be enough to make a batch of moms spaghetti. I was able to get it working well for a while, then it somehow shit its pants into the silicone sock and mucked up the whole hotend with nice black pla+.
- Comment on Nearly cubic meter meter printer! OrangeStorm Giga from Elegoo. 1 year ago:
Looks like a Bambulabs nozzle/hotend…
- Comment on Prusa MK4 or Bambu labs p1s 1 year ago:
I use Manjaro and it works fine, only things not working for me is the live view and remote access of the SD card. Neither bugs me since the printer sits right next to my desktop, but I could see those as negatives for some people
- Comment on what budget 3d printer would you suggest for a beginner? 1 year ago:
As someone who owns an Ender 3 v2, a Bambu p1p and an Anycubic Mono 4k, here are my thoughts… If your goal is to print and paint tabletop minis, you do not want an Ender, SV06, or even a Bambu labs printer. Even if you swap out the nozzle for a smaller one, paint and washes WILL absolutely show layer lines, unless you’re willing to do hours of post processing, filling, filing and sanding. FDM is not your friend in this regard. You can, by all means, get acceptable quality prints if you’re willing to spend months calibrating, tuning, failing and burning through filament with printers in your price range, especially once you start upgrading / fixing your printer (ask me how I know). If, on the other hand, tabletop minis aren’t your main goal and more functional parts, or larger decorative pieces are what you’re after, I cannot recommend an FDM printer enough. Cost savings on filament vs resin, speed (kind of), selection and community support are light years beyond the SLA / resin printers. I would try to avoid the cheaper Ender printers however, as other have stated and I can attest, you will be spending a lot of time calibrating and troubleshooting, and eventually throwing money at it.
