All metal or bi metal heat break, or just replace the whole hotend with one of those ceramic heater ones.

Printed locking notched bed level wheels. I used one that had a number of teeth to match the rotation suggestions from the klipper screw adjust macro that uses abl to measure how much to turn each one.

Magnet bed plates. I have smooth matte pei, textured pei, gloss peo, unknown generic textured black stuff, and something else I can’t remember. Different filaments work better or worse on different bed materials and get great results without derpy hax like glue stick. I generally do abs on matte and everything else on tex or super smooth.

Printed abl. I use klackender. It calls for jap omron mouse click switch but I used kailh gm8 as a drop in replacement and it works great.

After trying pretty much every z mod I went with belted z from same website/discord/git as klackender. Single and dual drive dual rod and pom nut etc all skipped every now and then but now any print problems are from other causes. It’s a bit involved but effort and cost to returns is better ratio compared to the switchwire conversion…

Klipper. You can use basically any computer. I have one on a rpi zero 2 and one with a Dell computer that came with windows but is worse than a bad Chromebook. Both use dietpi as the os and kiauh to set up klipper and mainsail.