Comment on Is a dremel 3D40 worth it in 2024?
kitnaht@lemmy.world 5 weeks agoIt really isn’t. It’s the users who are mostly to blame. The one I see all the time, is users who replace the PTFE without knowing how that whole system works. Especially people who replace the PTFE with Crapricorn tubing.
rugburn@lemmynsfw.com 5 weeks ago
I’m just going on personal experience, 1st e3v2 I bought had a bent gantry extrusion (box was not damaged) and I had to deburr several of the holes. Luckily microcenter is local to me and I was able to exchange it. 2nd one was good for about a month before I had to replace the extruder as the teeth had worn off to the point it would slip and make that fun clicking sound we all know and love. I was only printing standard Inland PLA, nothing filled or overly abrasive. All ghings being equal, as someone new to the hobby at the time, spending more time and money trying to get it to print “ok” versus trusting it to not fail a 10+ hour print finally got to me. Not sure about their newer machines as my Ender experience left a bad taste in my mouth. Personally, when people ask what I’d recommend, I default to Prusa or Bambu (I went with Bambu), or Sovol or Quidi for more budget friendly options. I’ve heard Creality’s newer stuff is better, but I’m not planning on buying any more of their stuff. Eventually I’ll jump down the Voron rabbit hole, but too many other projects at the moment, plus a 350x350x350 machine is going to take up serious space in my print room.
Tl;dr : if you have a creality machine and you’re happy with it, by all means. One can only speak on their personal experience.
kitnaht@lemmy.world 5 weeks ago
I have pretty unique experience here in that I run a 3D printer repair shop. I have my hands on literally thousands of machines per year (an avg of 3-4 a day or so).
I’ve never once seen a bent gantry extrusion. The Ender 3 was known for a faulty period between 2020 and 2021 where they made a non-glass-filled extruder levers.
And I’ve never seen a brass hobbed gear for the extruder wear down on just normal PLA. White-PLA can be a little bit abrasive, but glow in the dark is just as bad as carbon fiber.
rugburn@lemmynsfw.com 5 weeks ago
I would imagine the one I returned got shipped back to the manufacturer or distributor, I can’t say for certain, but I’d guess most people who had such an obvious defect out of the box would do the same thing, might explain why you’ve never seen one. And, yes, I improperly lumped the poorly spec’d brass extruder gear into QA, you are correct, it was poor design. My point stands, Creality, at least from the period I bought mine, (likely manufactured during that era) had poor QA / poor design. I eventually got tired of manually trimming the bed every few prints, installed the Creality abl switch which really didn’t do much other than highlight the fact that the glass/PEI Creality beds seemed to warp on me. Once again, I’m speaking on my own experience, and if you’re new to the hobby and feel that Creality printers have improved enough to the point where they are reliable and relatively hands-off maintenance-wise, feel free to purchase one. My advice is worth exact as much as everyone else’s, one random voice on the internet.
kitnaht@lemmy.world 5 weeks ago
That’s…not true at all. If I gave someone advice on how to do a brain surgery, they’d be idiotic to listen to me. Same with 3D printers. Your replies echo the hordes of uneducated 3D printer owners who don’t know where to locate these things.
Glass is manufactured using a float method - it cannot be manufactured non-flat unless it is intentional. Which shows the straws you’re grasping at because you didn’t have the knowledge available to you at the time as too what was causing your issue.
The fact that you’ve made the same mistakes that I see plenty of people making over and over and over again - means that your opinion is misinformed, and sharing it is not only not helpful, but actually detrimental to the greater discourse.